It feels like Ghent is laying low, waiting for tourists to discover what we already have: that it’s one of the most special places in Belgium – one that the majority of visitors don’t realise they should have on their list to begin with.
We know, we know – Bruges is beautiful. We’ve seen the film, and ogled at the romantic views and also stood among hordes of tourists for the waffles and the overpriced chocolate. But just 30 minutes away lies Ghent (or Gent, or Gand, depending on which part of the Belgian language border you sit) – a city of around 260,000 people that combines the romantic setting of Bruges with the edginess of Brussels and the design influence of Antwerp. It’s all the best bits of Belgium in one relatively small place. Plus, it’s home to some of Belgium’s finest dining options.
So what to do with your 24h in Ghent? The good news is that it’s small enough to see plenty and still have time for a beer in one of its waterside bars.
Morning
There’s a lot to see in Ghent, but first: coffee. There’s a great café culture in the city and plenty of independent places to choose from. For the perfect combination of both design and excellent coffee, we recommend Het Moment. If the weather’s good, head out to the terrace. If not, the high ceilings and cornicing make for equally nice views.
Het Moment, Burgstraat 20
A very scenic 2 minute walk along the canal (be sure to stop to admire the impressive gothic architecture of the Graslei, where some of the buildings date back to the 13th century) brings you to the Design Museum of Ghent.
The city has a thriving art and design scene and the museum is a fascinating journey through the country’s most celebrated designers, from the thriving art nouveau era to the current day. Be quick though! The museum is closing for a large-scale refurb in 2022.
Design Museum Ghent, Jan Breydelstraat 5
Take a left from the museum and walk down Jan Breydelstraat, taking in some of the city’s unique design shops and boutiques, including many shops selling lace – one of Belgium’s prime historical exports.
Afternoon
Cross the Rekelingestraat and you can’t miss the imposing Castle of the Counts (or Gravensteen) – another gothic jewel in Ghent’s crown. The former seat of the Counts of Flanders holds a complicated and brutal history. Entry is included with a CityCard.
Hours of exploring ancient torture methods will no doubt have worked up an appetite. We know just the place nearby to grab lunch: Boon is a vegetarian lunch bar with an impressive art deco interior. Leave any misconceptions about vegetarian food at the door – the menu is seriously good and we guarantee that you won’t leave hungry.
Boon, Geldmunt 6
No trip to Ghent is complete without a visit to the St Bavo’s Cathedral (Sint Baaf’s in Flemish) to see the famous Ghent Alterpiece, otherwise known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb – an 18-panel mural from the 1400s designed by the Van Eyck brothers. The artwork has been plagued with misfortune over the centuries, having been stolen and damaged several times. We’d recommend seeing it before it befalls another casualty.
Sint-Baaf’s Cathedral, Sintbaafsplein
If it’s not yet 5pm in Ghent, it’s 5pm somewhere. Time for a refreshment, and where better than one of the most iconic examples of a Belgian ‘brown bar’? Brown bars are a staple of Belgian pub culture – what might be called ‘old man bars’ elsewhere. You can picture the scene: little natural light, a lot of wood, and sepia-stained walls from years of indoor smoking.
Go for the full tourist experience and head to Waterhuis aan de Bierkant. You might have to step over some influencers photographing its very Instagrammable exterior, but it’s worth it for a seat at the bar of this former brothel. Word to the wise: the strength of the beers isn’t adjusted for tourists – drink slowly!
Evening
We have the perfect dinner suggestion for you. But first, cross back over St Michael’s Bridge and enjoy the evening lights before taking a stroll back down the waterfront. Stop in front of Ghent’s Marriot hotel on Korenlei to see a sign of the city’s interesting past: the swans on the facade of the building, swimming away from each other, told visiting sailors that this was a brothel.
Heritage is a great example of Ghent’s diverse and adventurous culinary scene. Its location in a traditional Belgian building juxtaposes with its modern menu, heavily influenced by the cuisine of South America. You can read all about our experience at Heritage here.
Heritage, Rodekoningstraat 12
There’s no shortage of evening entertainment in Gent, whether it’s a night at the opera, taking in a concert in one of the city’s many venues, or just working your way round the bars and sampling Belgium’s speciality. If you’re in the mood for a last nightcap and fancy something a little gimmicky, then check out Dulle Griet, which boasts a menu of over 500 beers and prides itself on serving them in their correct corresponding glasses. However, these glasses have proved popular with light-fingered tourists over the years so the owners have put in place a novelty policy where one can surrender a shoe in exchange for a Max beer glass.
De Dulle Griet, Vrijdagmarkt 50
Night
There’s only one choice for us when it comes to accommodation in Ghent: The Verhaegen – a breathtaking family-run boutique hotel than just happens to be an 18th century former palace. It’s one of the most understatedly regal places we’ve stayed, and the personal touch from owners Jan and Marc is next-level. Read all about our amazing stay here.
The Verhaegen, Oude Houtlei 110
We guarantee that your 24h in Ghent will feature beautiful architecture, great food, and a healthy dose of Belgian beer (it’s all part of the cultural experience) – and we didn’t even cover waffles, chips or chocolate. You’ll just have to come back for round two.
You can enter the majority of Ghent’s attractions and museums for free with the Ghent CityCard, priced at 38EUR for 48 hours
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