The Hostal dos Reis Católicos in Santiago de Compostela is a place of many contradictions. For a start, it’s probably one of few five star hotels where the majority of the guests arrive with rucksacks and walking boots.
And don’t be fooled by the name – while Spanish ‘hostals’ are generally more affordable, no-frills hotels, there are no dormitories or shared bathrooms to be found here. Hostal dos Reis Católicos is a member of the prestigious Parador hotels group (luxury state-owned hotels in Spain, usually located in buildings of special historical interest) and as such boasts the best address in the city – on the main square, nestled between the cathedral and the city hall.
Situated quite literally on the end point of the famous Camino de Santiago (St James’s Way) walk, the hotel is a firm favourite of pilgrims in desperate need of some luxury and a place to rest their weary heads and blistered feet.
The building radiates historical and cultural importance and a stay here feels like you’re experiencing something exceptional. The Hostal probably wouldn’t thank us for saying so, but it should probably be kept as a once-in-a-lifetime visit for that very reason.
It’s said by some to be the oldest operating hotel in the world, others say it’s the oldest in Europe. Either way, it was built in the 1400s for the very same purpose it serves today: to welcome exhausted pilgrims and offer them a place to recuperate following their travels.
Search for a list of the top tourist must-sees in Santiago de Compostela and the Hostal dos Reis Católicos will almost certainly feature high on the list. It’s a living history book and its corridors and halls house a story as impressive as can be found in any of the city’s museums.
From the intricately adorned exterior walls to the church-like domes, stone archways and engraved wooden ceilings of its interior, it offers a visual experience like no other. We loved getting lost in the labyrinthine hallways.
The Camino de Santiago is taken on by over 200,000 trekkers each year and, while the majority don’t include a stay at the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, there’s plenty of space at the hotel for those who do. Its imposing cloisters house around 130 bedrooms, two restaurants, a bar… and did we mention that it even has its own full-sized church?
The rooms are set around four outdoor quadrangles, each with their own unique design, which give the building the shape of a Greek cross when viewed from above.
We stayed in a twin room located in the San Juan wing of the hotel, which was historically a royal hospital providing care for passing pilgrims. Our room offered views over the rooftops and hills of Santiago, but if you’re really lucky you might get one of the rooms directly overlooking the impressive Praza do Obradoiro.
Great care has been taken to honour the hotel’s rich past, and the bedrooms feature engraved wooden panelling, tapestries and, previously, weaved canopies over the beds. Alas, yet another casualty for the Covid-19 pandemic to answer for.
And while the past is very much preserved, this is, after all, a five star hotel in 2022, so you can expect all the comforts of the modern age: TV, toiletries and air conditioning. There’s very generous wardrobe space (backpack-sized) and the mini bar is blended in behind a wooden panelled dresser.
The grandeur, history and location of the Hostal more than earn it its five star rating. Where it doesn’t quite live up to the expectation is its service delivery. For the price paid you’d be forgiven for expecting better amenities in the room (we were surprised that even water wasn’t provided and had to be purchased from the minibar) and a more exceptional level of customer care. But let’s be honest – we’re not staying here for the shampoo.
Breakfast is good, offering a wide variety of continental choices (a range of meats, cheeses, fresh fruit and pastries) as well as the option to choose from a hot menu (omelettes made to order, bacon, Galician stew, churros). And if you feel like starting your day with something a little stronger than coffee, there’s also cava on offer.
There are enough pastry and cake offerings to rival a small bakery, but we were especially impressed to see that the hotel offers its very own in-house version of the Tarta de Santiago (almond cake bearing the cross of St James in icing sugar – a local speciality).
The Hostal dos Reis Católicos is truly one of the most unique hotel experiences you could hope for. Where it lacks in service, it more than makes up for in stunning architecture and the fact that staying here feels like spending the night in a museum.
When you’re walking through its endless corridors, you’re passing people from all walks of life and of every nationality. Where some luxury hotels attract a fairly homogenous clientele, this Parador invites a diverse demographic – both people for whom five star hotel experiences are commonplace, and those who are splashing out, maybe just for one night, for an experience that will stay with them forever.
We stayed
in a twin room in the San Juan cloister of the hotel. Rooms of this type vary in price depending on the season. At the time of visiting (high season) our room was priced at 386EUR including a very good breakfast.
Book directly via the Parador’s website or on Booking.com
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