Winery hotels are having a moment. For many places, the title seems to signify little more than a hotel that sells wine. Roxanich Winery and Design Hotel, however, is the purest form of the definition; a winery first and foremost, which offers luxury accommodation and all the bells and whistles that go alongside. And it does all of the above very, very well.
Situated at the foot of Motovun, a fairytale hamlet on a hilltop, Roxanich occupies prime position to enjoy panoramic views of vineyards and uninterrupted natural beauty. Most tourists to Croatia head swiftly south to take in Dalmatian beauties like Dubrovnik and Split, and Istria – the peninsula region in which Roxanich is located – often goes uncrossed. The result is a quiet playground of wine, truffles, history, and hedonism for the lucky few that do.
That hedonism is the cornerstone on which Roxanich is built, founded by hedonist-in-chief Mladen Rožanić. Mladen opened the winery and hotel back in 2018 – a futuristic structure atop historical wine cellars built by Charles I of Austria in the early 1900s. In addition to an impressive personal collection of wines (Mladen sets aside the last 1500 bottles from each production for hosting and enjoyment), the cellar also houses Mladen’s personal cigar collection – one of the largest in Croatia.
Mladen’s joie de vivre runs through its corridors, manifesting in loud, fun interiors, daring food pairings, and regular events for Istria’s well-heeled locals. Last winter its courtyard was transformed into a festive wonderland complete with ice rink. If Roxanich were a person, it’d be the life and soul of the party.
This free spirited approach also manifests in the variety of wines produced by the brand – no two remotely the same. The objective is not mass profit, but rather the freedom to experiment with different combinations and flavours. From fresh new rosés to aged orange wines, the key is the patience to let the wines reach their full potential.
A stay at Roxanich isn’t complete without a tour of its cellars, which double as a gallery space, showcasing local artists’ work, and where a soundtrack of classical music continuously plays for the benefit and relaxation of – no, not the visitors – the wines.
Thanks to the variety of production methods, there’s a wine for every taste and Roxanich has launched three collections to market: Philosophy, Sorelle, and First Roses. Sorelle is the most personal collection, with each of the six wines named after one of Mladen’s six daughters: Mara, Tara, Lara, Sara, Zara…and Petra.
In the unlikely event that you’re not a wine fan, Roxanich has plenty more to offer. The team is passionate about helping guests to experience the best of Istria through activities like olive oil and cheese tasting with local producers, bike rental, and truffle hunting in the hotel’s own 4×4.
There’s an in-house spa where guests can take in the tranquility of the surroundings while enjoying a treatment or swapping outdoor heat for indoor heat in the sauna.
Roxanich also boasts an impressive gastronomic offering based on the concept of honest kilometer cooking: using the freshest and most local ingredients. Breakfast is a combination of a continental buffet and a to-order hot menu, best enjoyed slowly with a strong Croatian coffee and the incredible view from the terrace. And as Istria is the home of the truffle, there’s, of course, the option to add truffles to your eggs.
For dinner, the restaurant serves up seasonal tasting menus starring surprising combinations of the region’s finest. Historically, Istria used to be part of Italy, and it has certainly retained the passion for cooking using good quality ingredients, supported by the perfect terrain and climate for growing produce close to home.
We were treated to a seasonal tasting menu of the chef’s picks, including hazelnut gazpacho, cured local vegetables, quail’s egg with roast cauliflower, and a decadent dessert of chocolate and dried raspberry bombe.
Not forgetting the important role of wine to this story, the menus are designed in harmony with the house speciality. A pairing menu matches the flavours to a selection of Roxanich wines.
With all the sights and activities on offer, you’re unlikely to want to spend much time indoors, but we’d encourage ample time to fully experience the rooms at Roxanich. As with everything else, they’re teeming with personality and bold design. We stayed in a Superior Valle room, with views overlooking the vineyards of the Mirna Valley as far as the eye can see.
These rooms are located in the historical part of the building, dressed with wooden beams and plenty of space for the main feature: a huge raised bed accessed by a platform of steps. It’s kitsch and comfortable, and another reminder that Roxanich shouldn’t be taken too seriously.
Everything guests could need for a comfortable stay is provided: robes, coffee machine, toiletries, air conditioning, black-out curtains. There’s also an abundance of storage space in case you decide to stay forever, which is a real risk.
We were welcomed with a plate of miniature desserts – a nice touch to let you know that you’ll be well looked-after.
Roxanich is all fun and no pretense. We were hoping for a boutique hotel experience that was somewhat out of the ordinary, but what we found exceeded all expectations; from the way the wines are produced and stored to the way the interior is designed, to the surprising menus with the freshest ingredients and the breathtaking views from every angle. Roxanich – like Istria – is a real hidden gem, and one that we’re almost reluctant to share. At least until we’ve had a chance to experience it all again for ourselves.
Prepare yourself for guilt-free overindulgence and pure, unadulterated hedonism. Roxanich is truly one of a kind.
For best rates book via the Roxanich website, where you’ll find a selection of stay+experience packages.
We stayed
Deluxe Valle room, priced at around €500 per night inc. breakfast (high season) and as little as €150 in low season
We drank
Roxanich wine tasting (tour of the cellars plus tasting of 5 selected wines with local cheeses, bread and charcuterie) – €43 per person
We ate
Special summer tasting menu – €99
Wine pairing – €33
This was a press stay – all opinions are our own
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