Along a quiet residential street, just ten minutes’ walk from the centre of Antwerp, black lacquer doors conceal the best-kept secret in the city; a Pandora’s Box that threatens to ruin all future hotel experiences once opened. Simply put, this is a hotel like no other.
Cabosse is a four-suite spa hotel housed in a traditional Belgian mansion from 1864. It’s also the family home of Filip, Riad, and Flo the labradoodle. The couple bought the property in 2008 before undertaking a full-scale, four-year renovation to restore it back to its former glory.
The doors of Cabosse open onto a sweeping hall of chandeliers and intricately tiled floors, stretching all the way to the back of the house where a glimpse of greenery from the garden is just visible (more on that later). Soft classical music creates a peaceful escape from the bustling city centre, only momentarily interrupted by the bounding paws of Flo down the hallway as she comes to meet you. The communal rooms at Cabosse are on full view for guests’ enjoyment, illuminated by a run of original skylights and separated by glass partition walls to create the illusion of one continuous space.
Filip and Riad worked together with an interior designer from Bruges on the concept, but chose the décor themselves, drawing on an interesting combination of French colonial style and their love of Asia. The house is dotted with artefacts and artwork from their travels, from several giant works by the same Thai painter to a red Murano glass chandelier found in Delhi – so exquisite that they designed the rest of the room around it.
A skylit tearoom wallpapered in tropical banana leaf print backs on to a sultry dining room of renaissance and Asian influences. The more formal sitting room could be plucked straight from the original 19th century home, while the office and bookshop (specialising in an impressive collection of Assouline works) remains most faithful to the original design with crown mouldings in ochre and gold.
According to its website, Cabosse does “old school service” – a rather modest way of saying that you are in the safe hands of hospitality experts. In fact, Riad is Head of the bachelor programme on Hotel Management at the AP College University, and also holds a WSET Level 4 Diploma in wine tasting (that’s ‘master sommelier’ level). Cabosse almost feels like an academic experiment in flawless hosting.
The dinner – available exclusively to guests – has to be ordered the day before to ensure the freshest produce. Belgian classics like vol-au-vent are given a gourmet twist and served alongside rare wines from Riad’s dedicated wine room. Breakfast is a tasting event with homemade bread, cured meats, local cheeses and, in our case, freshly-made peperkoek (Flemish gingerbread).
The four Cabosse bedroom suites are designed to offer a completely unique experience. The Queens Suite is as regal as the name suggests; Askoy a dramatic suite with a wooden terrace overlooking the garden; Thompson embodies colonial style with rattan and cognac tones; and Moonwalker, the most modern, contains the original Borsalino hat worn by Michael Jackson during his first moonwalk in the Billie Jean video. Cabosse is a treasure trove for artefacts: the Queens Suite displays an original kettle that once belonged to Maria Theresa, Empress of Hapsburg, while Askoy is named for the boat in which Belgian treasure Jacques Brel sailed to French Polynesia, and the room contains two pieces of the boat’s hull.
We stayed in the Queens Suite, a palatial space bathed shades of gold. A full-sized sitting room with dining area exudes old school glamour, complete with sepia framed portraits of former Queen Fabiola and King Badouin of Belgium. It’s a tongue-in-cheek nod in recognition of the room’s flamboyance, from the gold lamé curtains to the cerise fireplace.
The bedrooms are a full sensory experience, designed, above all, for comfort. Filip and Riad were insistent that their guests should enjoy the same high standards that they enjoy. The beds have luxurious spring mattresses imported from England – the same as in their own bedroom – and are made up with high-quality bedding that promises a sleep fit for queens.
Perhaps the most exceptional part of the Queens Suite is the bathroom, painted black and full of drama, with a huge black marble bath as its centrepiece. A large painting by Belgian painter Mathieu V Staelens hangs above the fireplace, depicting a surreal scene with a faceless man surrounded by doves – a reference to the painted white doves on the ceiling crown above. Maison Margiela products (another nod to Belgian design) promise to transport you to a New York jazz bar.
Guesthouse Cabosse is reflective of its environment, starting with its location in Antwerp, Belgium’s design capital. In a country known for its modest approach to life, Antwerp is decidedly un-Belgian; it’s ostentatious, chic, and very sure of itself. This culture – largely a symptom of its illustrious history as the world’s diamond capital (even today 85% of the world’s rough diamonds pass through Antwerp) – has bred a collective psyche that puts high value on aesthetics and the finer things in life. Neither of its owners hails from the city originally, yet the house displays a brazen elegance that could only work in Antwerp.
However, despite its aesthetic charm, the goal at Guesthouse Cabosse is not to be seen. Its hosts set out to create a space of sanctuary and complete privacy, shutting out the city beyond. The Asian-inspired garden is the ultimate retreat, with carefully placed hedgerows offering total discretion. Guests can enjoy a swim alongside koi fish in the heated saltwater pool, or indulge in total relaxation at the house’s most surprising feature: a garden spa with hammam and sauna, hidden among the greenery.
It would take several stays to discover all the details and hidden corners of Guesthouse Cabosse. Filip and Riad explain that a number of their guests are returning visitors, coming back as often as every month and never tiring of the peaceful retreat and excellent service they receive here.
As we sit in one of the lounges, surrounded by antiquities from all over the world and enjoying a wine that Riad has specially selected to suit our tastes, we can fully appreciate that one stay simply isn’t enough. After all, there are three more suites to experience.
For best rates, book through Guesthouse Cabosse’s website directly.
We stayed in the Queens Suite, priced from 650eur per night, not including breakfast and spa access.
This was a press stay – all opinions are our own.
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