After decades of being overlooked by tourists coming to Italy, Puglia is finally gaining the recognition it deserves. Social media channels are flooded with images of its turquoise waters and those strange, ubiquitous cone-shaped buildings: trulli. When searching for a truly (no pun intended) Puglian experience, there’s surely none more authentic than sleeping in an original trullo. Cue Nina Trulli Resort: a treasure in the countryside near Monopoli, and the place that we believe offers the best trullo stay in Puglia.
So, firstly: what is a trullo? Trulli have become an iconic symbol of the Apulian peninsula, dotted around the entirety of the region on the heel of Italy’s boot. The history surrounding their creation is debated, but it is believed that trulli were first built around the 14th century and were used as storage houses for grain and other crops, taking advantage of the thermal properties of the shape and materials used.
Now that we have the definition and history clear (ish), let us tell you about why Nina Trulli Resort needs a space on your itinerary.
Located less than twenty minutes from Alberobello (the Disneyland of trulli), the drive to Nina Trulli is a picturesque wind through fields carpeted with olive trees and vines. Although very conveniently situated for many points of interest in the region, the masseria (farm) gives the feeling of being very remote, with 360° views of fields that stretch miles. We highly recommend arriving at sunset, when the sky turns peach and the white of the buildings is coloured with the most incredible glow.
On arrival we are led to check in at reception, situated inside the farm’s old chapel building. There is a laid back and familial ambiance at Nina Trulli, despite the sophisticated service on offer. This is reinforced by a small team of very accommodating staff – the same faces morning and night – who offer black tie service while dressed in branded sweatshirts.
It becomes clear very quickly on arrival that Nina Trulli has been massively undersold by the baffling Italian star classification system. At the time of writing the resort is rated three stars, but operating far, far above that, which we hope will be reflected in the future.
The experience begins with a welcome refreshment in the courtyard: a fresh infusion using herbs grown in the farm’s nursery and a fluffy spinach soufflé with ricotta and home-grown sun dried tomato.
From the get-go, we understand the philosophy of quality without pretension, and of sustainability; growing and making as much as possible in-house. The farm is encircled by unspoiled nature, and the effort to weave these surroundings through every element of the experience is palpable.
The grounds are a sprawling maze of gardens and shaded sitting areas. Guests are invited to help themselves to fresh herbs from the garden, and take part in on-site cooking classes with the resorts chefs, learning to make the specialities of the region from scratch.
Food is an intrinsic part of any visit to Nina Trulli. In fact, its in-house restaurant – Orto – has an impressive reputation that is separate from the resort. Even if you don’t choose to stay at the resort (folly, in our opinion) it is absolutely worth making the detour to dine at Orto.
Like everything else, the restaurant puts strong emphasis on the role of nature and fresh produce. We were treated to a spectacular eight course tasting menu where each dish brought a new concept, activity or experience, from scarpetta ravioli used to scoop up an intricate pattern of sauce to cardoncello mushroom washed down with a side of mushroom broth. The most overt reference to the restaurant’s connection with nature was the chocolate pot dessert, shaped to look like the most perfect edible potted plant.
With the expanse of vineyards surrounding the site, it’s no surprise that the menu is offered with an accompaniment of carefully chosen wine pairings. These too are primarily natural wines made with the region’s indigenous grapes, and fashioned into surprising variations of classics like pugliese moscato and flavourful orange wines.
Dinner is concluded with a heady digestif made with hand-foraged herbs from Salento.
Sated from dinner and having lost count of an unpolluted sea of stars from the roof terrace atop the trulli, it’s time for bed. Sleeping inside a trullo building does have a couple of limitations to be aware of; for example, the very purpose of the building was to protect grain from the elements, and so the materials create a natural indoor humidity. It also can’t be overlooked that historical buildings are by nature old, and therefore the interiors are likely to be simple and without the mod cons of an ordinary hotel room.
At Nina Trulli, the rooms are very much on-brand with the resort’s ethos: simple yet tasteful, and containing everything you might need, with nothing wasted.
The interiors don’t distract from the experience of sleeping inside a trullo, with basic wooden furnishings and ambient lighting. The bathroom, in simple stone and wood, has a full-sized shower and is stocked with robes and toiletries local to the region.
Traditionally, trulli are adorned with a pinnacolo – decorative stone pinnacles depicting a variety of symbols. In this case, the pinnacolo has been removed to create a skylight that floods the house with natural light during the day.
Each building offers a vantage point towards vast stretches of vineyards and fields beyond.
Fresh from the delights of the previous evening’s meal, our high hopes for the Nina Trulli breakfast were met and exceeded. Included in the room rate, the breakfast experience includes a good choice of sweet and savoury options, including cakes, biscuits, breads, charcuterie, cheeses, and eggs in varying styles, accompanied by coffee or tea, also available in varying forms. On the fresh juice menu, there is the option to choose a blend of vegetables and herbs from the garden.
We still can’t quite believe that we managed to stumble upon Nina Trulli. The Resort is secure in its provision of a great service and doesn’t feel the need to publicise it too loudly, and it’s with more than a little reticence that we share the secret.
At the centre of Nina Trulli Resort’s charm is its people. This was, by far, the friendliest reception we received during our time in Puglia, and it really felt like a genuine welcome. This hardworking team is on hand to make just about anything a possibility, and to create that unique blend of relaxed professionalism that works so successfully.
Staying in a Puglian trullo should feel authentic, incorporate the traditions of the region, and respect the surroundings. Nina Trulli Resort does all of this and so much more, offering a complete sensory experience from day to night and delivering it with passion and humility.
We departed Nina Trulli Resort feeling nourished in every way and with the sense that we were leaving too soon. As the gates opened and we made a start back down the dirt track, we caught a glimpse of a distant figure in the rear view mirror: one of the staff members was still there waiting, waving goodbye.
We stayed
in a Junior Suite trullo house, priced from 160eur per night including breakfast
We ate
An incredible eight course tasting menu at Orto, priced at 100eur per person including wine pairing
For best rates and exclusive offers, enquire directly on the Resort’s website.
This was a media stay. All opinions are our own.
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