As entrances go, it doesn’t get more grand than this. A short drive from Ostuni leads you through countryside to the imposing gates of Masseria Grieco. They open, as if by magic, and the anticipation builds as you travel up a seemingly endless tree-lined path towards your destination.
Masseria Grieco is more than a four star hotel. It is a country resort, offering a haven to disconnect and, literally, smell the roses. Nestled in a quiet spot and surrounded only by nature, the site is a historical farm (masseria) from the 16th century that has been renovated to a luxurious standard, while still retaining the very palpable vestiges of its former life.
Ensconced inside a boundary of traditional dry-stone walls, the masseria is formed of several stone buildings concentrated around a central courtyard and engulfed, at every angle, by lush gardens. We visit at the tail-end of high season, when the sun is still warm but the hordes of summer tourists have left. Wandering around the peaceful grounds, Masseria Grieco feels like the ideal antidote to the queues and noise of the nearby towns.
At first glance, this could be a hacienda in southern Spain, but the details are quintessentially pugliese. The bedrooms are situated over two storeys in the main building, connected by an exterior balcony and sweeping central staircase that leads into the gardens.
Guests can choose from four room options, ranging from deluxe to suite. All rooms feature the same traditional stone farmhouse design, with neutral linens, white wood, and minimal furniture. It’s simple luxury with not too many mod cons or fancy extras, but the spaces are homely and comfortable and the surroundings are the real selling point.
In fact, the rooms are deliberately designed to entice you outside. Our room is situated on the ground floor, with a front garden-facing terrace and a south-facing sitting area to the back, shielded with trees and plants for complete privacy.
Guests come to Masseria Grieco primarily to relax and recharge, and the resort is designed for just that. Hidden within the sprawling gardens is a vast pool area with poolside bar/café. Every effort has been made to ensure that visitors enjoy optimal privacy during their stay and the sheer expanse of the pool affords alone time, even in a communal area. Just beyond, at the opposite end of the pool, the silhouettes of two original trulli houses serve as a reminder of the site’s impressive history.
Despite feeling like a rural countryside resort, Masseria Grieco’s location is very convenient for several points of interest in the nearby Itria Valley. If you do decide to make the voyage back down the driveway and venture outside, Ostuni is the most obvious choice, with its beautiful whitewashed old town on a hilltop and some excellent options for eating. Cisternino is another impressive example of a città bianca with labyrinthine alleyways down which to get lost and a charming centro storico (old town), and Locorotondo is famed for its (as the name suggests) circular historic centre with incredible views over the valley.
Golden hour casts a certain magic over Masseria Grieco, as the pinks and oranges of dusk settle on the stone and the silence is punctuated by thousands of insects living in the profusion of plants and flowers. As light fades, the farmstead twinkles with garlands of lights draped through the courtyard. The old chapel is a surreal sight, its altar lit up, unoccupied, in the darkness.
Masseria Grieco is a self-contained resort, meaning that there’s no necessity to leave unless you choose to. The onsite restaurant serves uncomplicated local cuisine made with quality examples from the surrounding area, and with added homely touches such as the Masseria’s own brand olive oil.
This is also where breakfast is served – included in the room price. Breakfast is a lavish affair with tables full of continental options such as meats, cheeses, cereals, pastries and cakes. An entire section is dedicated to jams and marmalades in all different flavours. There is also the option to order hot breakfast options for an additional cost. On leaving, guests are invited to take away a homemade granola bar – a nice welcoming touch.
The hotel’s boutique size and self-contained facilities also make it an ideal venue for private hire, and it doubles as a popular wedding venue throughout the year. Images show long tables arranged on the cobbled courtyard and outdoor dance parties under the hanging lights. The onsite chapel is a unique added convenience.
If you’re looking for a place to retreat, take in nature, and recharge your batteries, Masseria Grieco could be an ideal choice. Guests are left very much to their own devices to enjoy the grounds as their own. The expanse of land and private, shaded spots accommodates whichever degree of solitude and tranquility you seek.
Our stay felt like a peaceful, homely and no-fuss experience. Yes, there are more luxurious resorts in Puglia and the bedrooms are perhaps a little on the basic side, but the farmstead itself and its surroundings are really beautiful. As you wander through the foliage and the cobbled squares, you’re reminded that this is a site with a very long attachment to Puglia. Sit back, relax, and breathe in the history.
We stayed
in a Superior room, priced at ~€300 per room including breakfast in high season.
For best rates or private hire enquiries, book directly via Masseria Grieco’s website.
This was a media stay. All opinions are our own.
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