The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage

Edinburgh: a gothic wonderland of otherworldly charm, ghoulish tales and Harry Potter memorabilia. It’s one of Europe’s most ambient capitals with its underground vaults and gloomy alleyways, and also home to an impressive culinary scene with an abundance of excellent restaurants and bars to choose from.

The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage (the clue’s in the name) is a panoramic restaurant high on the hill, with wraparound windows offering views that stretch from Edinburgh castle and the dark stone of the Old Town to the docks of Leith and across the water to the coastal villages of Fife.

The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage was opened in 2018 by the team behind Gardener’s Cottage, a much-loved eatery on Royal Terrace Gardens. It was the first restaurant to attempt the ambitious location on Calton’s hilltop, forming part of a regeneration project on the site of the old City Observatory.

From the outside The Lookout appears fairly ordinary; but on entry the eye is immediately drawn to the main event: floor-to-ceiling views of Edinburgh as far as the eye can see. The owners have clearly understood that the location is likely the primary reason for guests to visit and, as such, the interior is stylish but very simple: wooden tables with hairpin legs, black metal chairs, a couple of plants. We arrive on an overcast day in February when the grey concrete of the floor coalesces with the grey outside and dull light is cast from the wooden ceiling. The place settings are equally minimal – simple water glasses and a single candle on each table.

If the aim here is to keep diners’ attention on the view then it’s mission accomplished: we spend every moment that we’re not actively eating just staring outside, trying to identify different landmarks and orientate ourselves with the geography. Snippets of conversation around us suggest that the other tables are doing the same.

Just when we’ve almost forgotten that we’ve come here to eat, the waitress arrives with the menu. The service at The Lookout is poised and professional, indicating years of experience and confident familiarity with the wine list. And the food choice is as fuss-free as the surroundings: a simple three-course tasting menu of fresh dishes, regularly changed according to the season, and with variations for lunch and dinner.

It’s lunchtime when we arrive so we’ll be having the lunch tasting menu today, and choose to have the ‘matched drinks’ menu to go alongside. The menu offers no information about what the drinks will be, but everything we’ve experienced thus far suggests that we’re in good hands.

We start with a sparkling white wine. It’s an Italian Durello – a more casual alternative to champagne, served in a stemless tumbler, and with strong notes of apple and papaya. Shortly after, we’re given some very moreish sourdough bread – still warm – with salted butter.

We’ve almost completely devoured the bread by the time the first course arrives: a parsnip velouté with shavings of truffle and a drizzle of dill butter. While some may consider soup (or velouté or any other variation) an underwhelming choice for a tasting menu, we’re firm believers that there is elegance in a soup done well. This one is done well. We’re in salty, buttery heaven, the sweetness of the parsnips and richness of the truffle blending in perfect harmony. It’s simple, it’s fresh, and it’s really tasty.

The restaurant area is a cosy square with around ten tables and a narrow open kitchen and bar area. The chefs are hard at work behind an open partition but the room somehow feels very peaceful, despite the sounds and strong aromas of a busy kitchen.

Dessert is a fun layered concoction of pain d’épices (that’s gingerbread to you and I), chocolate mousse, pear, salted caramel ice cream and sprinkles of wafer biscuit. It’s not super refined – the sort of pudding that would equally satisfy adults and children – but it’s nice and the spice of the gingerbread is comfortingly warming on this chilly winter’s day. Our final paired wine is a syrupy dessert wine with deep, blackberry jam notes; a strong complement to the hibernal flavours.

By the time coffees arrive (French press served with truffles) the clouds have lifted and we enjoy the the first signs of sunset over the Old Town, the castle contrasted against the yellow backdrop. There is a low hum of conversation, which, together with the warming menu and flickering candles, creates a cosy setting. Edinburgh is a city best appreciated in low light and it seems that its unique ambience has crossed from the outside in.

As Google will confirm, The Lookout has some of the best views in Edinburgh. But that’s only part (albeit a really important part) of the charm. The laid back atmosphere makes it an equally great choice for a quick bite after shopping as for a special dinner, and you’ll eat well in either scenario. The nature of a limited set menu means that it won’t be for everyone, and perhaps the dessert could be a touch more elegant, but overall it’s a very special experience. You’ll come for the view and return for the high-quality food and excellent service.

We ate
The seasonal three-course tasting menu priced at £45pp.

We drank
the matching drinks menu priced at £35pp. We had coffee and truffles for an additional £9.50

You can reserve a table online through the restaurant’s website.

This was a press visit – all opinions are our own.