If you enjoy your dinner accompanied by illustrious surroundings from a bygone era, look no further than Maison Lefèvre. Located in Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg’s second largest city, this fine dining restaurant is hidden away in plain sight among shopfronts and passing traffic. You could miss it altogether were it not for the glittering chandeliers visible through grandiose art nouveau windows
The restaurant is situated in a former stately mansion from 1897, built by the restaurant’s namesake, Belgian entrepreneur Alfred Lefèvre. And on crossing the threshold, you’re immediately transported back in time. It’s a vast space in bright white; minimal save for an array of statement lights, intricate cornicing (presumably original) and a smattering of plants.
These days the restaurant is a family venture, taken over in 2012 and lovingly protected by sisters Estelle and Deborah Sidoni. The pair joined forces with chef Bruno Cornu and Luxembourgish culinary legend and consultant Tony Tintinger to create an adventurous and frequently-changing menu and wine list.
It’s Saturday night in Esch-sur-Alzette when we visit, and we are among the first guests to arrive. Maison Lefèvre is one of the city’s best-known fine dining establishments (recognised by the Michelin guide), and the atmosphere is one of soft music, warm light and a steady murmur of low conversation. Our host takes our coats and leads us to our table, his voice mirroring the soft tones of the surroundings.
Maison Lefèvre has made a name for itself through a daring menu of innovative combinations and flavours. What better way to fully experience this than by trying a tasting selection of the highlights via the five-course ‘saveurs’ menu? We opt for the wine pairing menu to go alongside, which promises equally adventurous choices from lesser-known regions.
The very first tastes are a sign that this won’t be a run-of-the-mill evening. Our apéritif is a sweet (almost dessert) wine from South of France winery Château la Bastide, served alongside homemade olive bread and a seeded puree of pumpkin served inside its carved-out shell. The amuse bouche arrives in test tubes – pea and mint gazpacho alongside a canapé of cheese, formed in a perfect dome shape.
Our taste buds are already in overdrive before the first main dish has arrived. Now begins the main event. The ‘saveur’ menu is testament to Chef Cornu’s willingness to make bold statements with his food, at the risk that the flavour combinations might not be for everyone. Case in point this first dish: vanilla fois gras accompanied by jelly of melon, red onion, and watermelon reduction. It comes in the playful primary colours of a fruit salad and leaves you surprised with the unexpected sweetness of the fois gras. It’s immediately divisive and launches us into discussion – exactly the reaction a good tasting menu should have.
With the next dish, the textures have us talking. A mozzarella pannacotta on a refreshing tomato and peach ceviche, tomato sorbet and basil sponge. The layers of flavour are complex, particularly when paired with their matching wine: a Greek rosé de Xinomavro in the style of an Italian primitivo.
A meaty medallion of herb-crusted, line-caught pollack with cockles arrives next, swimming in a fennel cream sauce. Our dedicated waiter serves us each dish with a well-versed explanation, mirrored by the sommelier who does the same for the wines.
By now Saturday night is well and truly in full swing, with tables of couples and friends luxuriating over their meals. There’s a palpable buzz in the air but the atmosphere is calm and friendly.
The ‘saveurs’ menu is not light on indulgence, as shown by the arrival of the second dish to feature fois gras. It’s a tournedos – more sophisticated than its ’70s-era cousin the tournedos Rossini – of free-range chicken and fois gras, enhanced by autumnal flavours in the form of pumpkin, chestnut shavings and brown mushrooms. It’s a warming dish that balances well with the full body of the La Gourmande provençal red.
At this point in the meal, diners are asked to make a Sophie’s Choice: sweet dessert or cheeseboard. We opt for one each (in the name of research, of course). The sweet option continues the autumnal cosiness with fresh figs, maple syrup cream on a biscuit base, and – an inspired touch – jasmine ice cream. A running theme at Maison Lefèvre is layering of complex flavours; each dish requires combining the different elements to discover the carefully curated flavour pairings.
The serving of the cheese plate is a theatrical affair. We’re led to the serving bar, where our waiter dons a pair of gloves and talks us through an impressive selection of cheeses of all types and provenance. The waiting team at Maison Lefèvre speak with knowledge about the produce and ingredients, and we’re happy to take our waiter’s recommendation on five cheeses of varying styles – all delicious.
It’s time for the final nightcap: a 10% cinsault for the dessert, packed with red fruit acidity to offset the sweetness, and a dessert wine from Domaine la Préceptorie to offer the opposite effect against the cheese.
Coats are gathered and tables vacated as we finish coffees and Saturday night draws to a close. Stepping outside into the cold feels like re-entering reality after a surreal experience in another era. Maison Lefèvre is an ode to old world indulgence, with its opulent setting and a menu as daring as its entrepreneurial namesake once was. Esch-sur-Alzette may not be the most obvious tourist destination, but this culinary journey is worth the detour.
We ate
The seasonal ‘Menu Saveurs’, priced at €80.
We drank
the accompanying wine pairing menu:
€42 for four glasses
Reserve your table at Maison Lefèvre here.
This was a press visit – all opinions are our own.
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