The Capaldi Hotel, Atlas Mountains

There are many things Morocco has in abundance: excellent food, hours of sunshine, and – growing exponentially over the last five years – luxury accommodation options. The country is riding the wave of an ever-growing tourist boom, but rather than buckle under the pressure of additional demand, the sector has embraced unparalleled levels of service and quality.

The majority of these tourists fly into Marrakech to spend a few days enjoying the luxury riads and bustling souks, perhaps leaving the city for a day trip to Essaouira or to ride a camel in the desert. However, what many visitors don’t factor into their itinerary is the fact that a short drive from Marrakech brings you to the foothills of the mighty Atlas Mountains, where a handful of luxury countryside retreats offer respite from the chaos in the most scenic of locations. Having thoroughly enjoyed a couple of days dodging mopeds and assaulting our senses in the city, we sought refuge at The Capaldi Hotel – a luxury 10-acre retreat within the Agafay desert and just 35 minutes’ drive from Marrakech.

To get here, we’ve taken the scenic route through the desert, stopping off for mint tea atop a sand dune on the way. We turn at the village of Amizmiz, continuing off-road along a track towards the hotel and finally arrive at its intricate carved wooden door. It opens, immediately offering a glimpse through the other side of the reception and out into the garden and, beyond that still, to the jaw-dropping ridges of Africa’s largest mountain range. The tops of the mountains are dusted with an unseasonably light smattering of snow for this time of year, but make for a postcard-perfect contrast against the garden’s palm trees and the fact that it’s a glorious 28 degrees in November.

The sense of peace is the first thing that strikes us about The Capaldi. We feel inclined to whisper when the receptionist greets us with a menu of welcome drinks – a nice touch – from traditional Moroccan mint tea to French wine, and leads us through lush gardens, past a large swimming pool with the most incredible mountain view, through tree-shaded sun beds and alongside sheltered cabanas. A concerted effort has been made to ensure a sense of privacy, with sunbathing areas spaced out and shrouded behind hedged borders, affording guests a sense of seclusion. Every now and again we spot someone reading a book in the shade or napping on one of the many cushioned daybeds. Considering that the hotel has 23 rooms and most are currently occupied, it’s amazing that we’ve barely seen anyone. There will be no jostling for a space by the pool here!

It’s in this area that we meet our hosts for the first time: husband and wife team Tara and Ed Lyle. The couple arrived in Morocco to set up home 20 years ago and spotted immediate potential in this empty plot of land between Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains. Their intention had initially been to build a holiday home for private use, benefitting from the 360° views of the mountains from the highest point. As tourism continued to flourish in Morocco, they saw an opportunity, leveraging Tara’s experience in the real estate industry to gradually build the luxury countryside retreat we stand in today. Much more than just a business venture, The Capaldi is also home to Ed and Tara, who live in one of the villas on the property’s grounds.

The hotel is built in a haçienda-style formation – a series of villas, suites and rooms – some standalone, some located within the primary building – each one unique in its own way and designed to cater to a different experience. As peace and sanctuary is the order of the day, The Capaldi Hotel welcomes guests from age 12 and above, and is a regular choice of honeymooners. It’s the type of ambiance that invites a bottle of wine over a leisurely lunch or a siesta by the open fire, wrapped in one of the many soft blankets that Tara has thoughtfully placed around the common areas.

The Atlas Rooms offer a spectacular view of the mountains through the floor-to-ceiling windows, and the Deluxe Pool Suites are self-contained enough that you don’t have to leave at all if you don’t want to – room service is always on offer.

From two sets of French doors, balconies open over sprawling gardens, and, should the location spark inspiration, there’s a writing desk to make this a creative retreat.

The king-sized bed in ruby silk is surrounded by art and sculptures, hand-sourced by Ed and Tara during trips to markets and the Marrakech souks, as well as from local suppliers they’ve come to know during their time living here. The Capaldi is proudly Moroccan, and this pride of provenance is championed through references to its most prized produce, from toiletries containing argan oil, dishes incorporating Moroccan spices, and olive oil extracted from the the trees within the hotel’s very own gardens. It doesn’t get more local than this.

The influence of French cooking is clear through simple, well-prepared dishes made from good quality ingredients. Our beef is the perfect side of medium-rare, arriving with fresh winter veg and a creamy mushroom sauce, and the chargrilled salmon and celeriac mash is light and fresh to complement the Indian summer. Lunch is equally enjoyable: a really good club sandwich is hard to come by, but The Capaldi’s version is so good that we order it twice during our stay.

While the ambience absolutely lends itself to total R&R among the olive trees, there are plenty of other activities to keep you occupied during your stay. Guests can take advantage of the onsite cinema room and its long list of movie titles, old and new (local licensing laws make streaming services more complicated, so the older school option of DVDs provides a reliable alternative). It’s as comfortable a cinema as you’ll find, with cushioned sofas in the same grey and dark red hues and blankets on every arm.

In keeping with the theme of deep relaxation, The Capaldi boasts its own spa with hammam. The menu offers a wide variety of treatments, including mini versions of certain treatments (priced from 150dh) to allow guests a taste of what’s on offer. We participate in a traditional hammam ritual, which involves head-to-toe exfoliation with natural black soap before being doused with warm and cold water. Like a sauna, the steam is thought to boost the immune system and clear the lungs, and the whole experience is deeply invigorating. We’re glad to have experienced a ritual so central to Moroccan culture, which sees whole families participating as often as once a week.

To stay at The Capaldi is to experience the best of Morocco in one place. From the fresh produce that comes from the land to the traditional treatments in the spa, it’s also one of few places where you can start the day morning watching the sun rise in the desert and then set again over the Atlas Mountains. And while its owners aren’t Moroccan natives, the vast majority of the hotel’s employees hail from the local area or other parts of the country. Sustainability is a crucial part of the ethos, and the hotel gives back to the local community through charitable ventures such as a relief fund to support victims of the 2023 earthquake (the earthquake’s epicentre was just an hour away from The Capaldi, and the surrounding villages suffered immense damage).

Far from standing still, plans are already in motion to improve the hotel’s offering further. It’s an exciting time for Morocco, with the country set to host the Africa Cup this year and co-host the 2030 World Cup, significantly impacting the number of visitors over the coming years. This is also great news for infrastructure, as it is likely that the main highways between Marrakech and villages like Amizmiz will undergo improvements, making it even easier to commute between the two.

Morocco offers excellent value for money when it comes to luxury accommodation, but The Capaldi has to be among the best examples. The standards and service – not to mention the astounding location – incorporate the very best of Moroccan hospitality while leveraging the owners’ deep understanding of the international market.

At the time of our visit, Morocco is experiencing the tailwinds of Storm Bert which is sweeping through northern Europe. Here, in the heart of the Agafay desert, the conditions create a dramatic ambience, blowing through the palm trees. There’s an almost otherworldly feel as we sunbathe in warm winds under a vibrant orange sky. As we relax, a guest is fast asleep on a daybed; another is cross-stitching while enjoying a bottle of red wine. It’s quiet, save for the crackling of the outdoor fire and the whistle of the wind through the palms. The air is filled with woodsmoke and tropical cocktails and spices from the kitchen. The Capaldi Hotel is a feast for the eyes and the senses, but don’t take our word for it. Experience it for yourself!

We stayed
in a Deluxe Suite, priced from 4945dh per room per night in low season, including a very good breakfast.

We experienced
a traditional Moroccan black soap hammam ritual – 300dh

We ate
from the daily-changing set menu, priced at 385dh for three courses

For best rates and special offers, book directly through The Capaldi Hotel’s website

This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.