Sometimes you visit a property and you can almost feel its history seeping through the wood panelled walls and corniced ceilings. This is exactly the feeling when you step inside The Roseate, a five-star luxury boutique hotel in Edinburgh’s West End. The city has no shortage of historical buildings, with streets full of Gothic charm and tales of sinister lore, but few visitors have the good fortune to spend a night in one these bygone buildings, away from the crowds of tourists on the Royal Mile.
The property, also known as Dunstane House, was built in 1852 by architect Alexander Black and was first owned by prominent silk merchant Thomas Gill, whose legacy lives on through the careful selection of fine textiles and silk-panelled walls that decorate the hotel today. The area surrounding the hotel – just a short walk from Murrayfield, Scotland’s national rugby ground – is mainly residential, offering guests a view of the true Edinburgh, away from the touristic centre. It’s well-connected, with regular bus and train links into the city, and less than half an hour’s walk will bring you to the city’s eponymous castle.
First impressions are important, and the welcome we receive as we arrive at Roseate sets the tone for our stay. We’re met at the door by a smartly dressed member of the team who greets us by name before leading us through to the hotel’s bar area for a full introduction and tour of the property. As all good Scottish hotels should, Roseate’s bar has a replete collection of Scotch whiskies that glow amber in a dedicated cabinet.
The interior of the property is stylish and in keeping with the character of the house; think Murano glass chandeliers, heavy wooden doors, and double-height stained glass windows. Somehow, despite having 35 rooms, the property has retained the feeling of a private home.
However, behind each unassuming door is a luxury suite adorned with the finest textiles and amenities, securing Roseate Edinburgh its five star rating and membership of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels group.
Our suite is located on the upper floor of the house, and on the way up the stately wooden staircase we take in traditional paintings and old photographs that tell stories of the house’s illustrious past, as well as the most beautiful stained glass window that stretches the height of the house, bringing a contrast of light against the moody dark wood of the interior.
Ours is a room designed to impress. The door opens, and our eye is drawn first to an enormous four-poster bed in black lacquered wood. Beyond, in the corner of the room, the light catches a copper roll top bath that shines against silk wallpaper in the same golden tones (yet another subtle nod to the heritage of the house and its owner).
A revival radio is playing old-fashioned music and we’re transported to another era. Every feature is thoughtfully chosen – from the glass chandelier in orange and gold tones that bathes the room in a golden glow, to the dressing table and heavy wooden wardrobes that imbue a sense of boudoir. Visible from the silken chaise longue at the end of our bed are the roofs and sandstone that embody this affluent part of Edinburgh, the hills of Fife visible in the distance.
Its location, in relation to Edinburgh’s old town, is naturally one of the Roseate’s main selling points. However, it’s also the kind of hotel that merits staying in and luxuriating, so we find ourselves spending much less time in Edinburgh than we’d intended to. After some sightseeing, and drinks in the trendy nearby district of Leith, we can’t wait to return to the calm and warmth, to sink into the cushioned sheets of the bed and relax.
But first, there’s the matter of dinner. Meals are served in the hotel’s Dunstane restaurant, and it’s not surprising that the menu is all about showcasing pride in Scottish produce. The set menu (excellent value priced £50 for three courses at the time of our visit) picks a selection of favourites from the à la carte menu, including Oban crab, North Sea halibut, a rack of Highland lamb, and a selection of fine Scottish cheeses. Sourcing locally is central to the culinary proposition, and the Roseate works closely with local producers and farmers to ensure the menu features the very best cuts and freshest seafood.
It’s time for a nightcap, and choosing whisky feels like a cultural imperative here, as one of the illustrious former owners of the house was renowned whisky connoisseur William H. Ross, former Chairman of the Distillers company, who played a key part in the campaign to oppose prohibition in Glasgow in the 1920s. We sip our drams in what feels like an honorary tribute before retiring to our room.
Back upstairs, the lighting is set to the warmest glow and we draw a bath in that beautiful copper tub, adding the fragrant products that have been provided on a bath-side table. With everything glowing sepia and the soft music still playing through the radio, we’re transported back in time once again.
The building has operated as a boutique hotel since 1969, and in 2007 a second property was acquired; Hampton House is a detached townhouse on the opposite side of the street that was previously home to extended members of the Gill family during their ownership of Dunstane House. It’s fitting that both houses have retained this familial link, now operating as two properties within the same hotel, imbuing the same attention to quality and unique ambience across both.
You can usually tell an excellent hotel from the breakfast provided, and this is certainly the case with the Roseate. The breakfast here is to be enjoyed slowly and savoured, served à la carte in the same space as the dinner. Sunlight fills the room and there’s an air of quiet and calm as we make our selection – a choice requiring serious attention as this is an impressive breakfast menu, with various types of teas and coffees, juices and smoothies to choose from, but our eyes are drawn to the breakfast cocktails, and in particular the peat smoked bloody Mary (breakfast is inclusive of room price, but cocktails are an added cost, at £12 each), bringing a touch of Scotland to a classic.
This devotion to Scottish heritage plays though the breakfast menu too, including porridge served in the traditional Scottish way (with water and salt, although the more common sweet version is also available), Highland smoked salmon on the eggs Royale, and Ayrshire back bacon in the full Scottish breakfast.
The yoghurt is made from Scottish fruit and the butter served with the croissants is – you guessed it – Scottish!
We opt to hang around a little longer, soaking up the peaceful atmosphere. It’s a Monday, but the soft music and encouragement to savour breakfast makes it feel more like a Sunday, and we’re loathed to step outside the door into the hustle and bustle of Scotland’s capital once again. But alas, all good things come to an end, and it’s finally time for us to return to the modern age, leaving behind the glamour and romance of Victorian-era Edinburgh.
In Roseate, Dunstane House has found an ideal partner; one that seeks to keep its legacy alive and lavish its guests with some old school luxury (the Roseate group prides itself on mindful restoration of period properties). The pairing has created a unique ambiance, and it’s clear to see why the hotel was welcomed into the Small Luxury Hotels fold.
Edinburgh is jam-packed with ghoulish tours and exhibitions that seek to explain its fascinating past, but what better way to experience it than by staying in the home of one of its most prominent residents?
To stay here is to immerse yourself in the culture and essence of the city that you won’t find in the kitsch bars and souvenir shops. This is the real Edinburgh – and we’d highly recommend getting to know it.
We stayed
in one of Roseate’s luxury Suites, priced from £450 in low season, including an excellent à la carte breakfast
We ate
at the hotel’s Dunstane restaurant, enjoying the three-course set menu for £50 (drinks not included).
For the best offers, book directly through the hotel’s website.
This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.
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