Domaine de Canaille, Provence

Perched high on a hill above Cassis and under the shadow of the mighty Cap Canaille – the towering sea cliff that burns orange at sunset – you’ll find an impressive estate that was firmly at the centre of glamour in the roaring ’20s on the Côte d’Azur, welcoming esteemed guests such as Virginia Woolf and Winston Churchill in its former life as the Revestel Hotel.

As the years have passed, Domaine de Canaille has retained this ability to impress, having been transformed into a luxury private villa by the Treppoz family in 2017. Despite its location so close to the town of Cassis, it carries all the marks of a quintessential provençal countryside property; you enter down a cypress tree-lined driveway to a house draped in ivy and windows concealed behind pastel-coloured shutters.

Entering the property at ground level, a flight of stairs takes you to the lower ground, which comprises an enormous open plan living and dining space. A cosy library and reading room with grand piano leads through to a living area in biscuity shades with hand-woven blankets draped casually across plush sofas and coffee table books dotted on every side table and dresser. It’s a space that invites lounging with a book and watching the evenings draw in.

The kitchen is an exercise in contemporary architecture, illuminated by double-height anthracite windows and with a wraparound island, perfect for group meals in the adjacent dining room. It’s a well stocked space with everything you could need from a stay in the south of France: high-quality coffee machine (drinking it from a bowl, the French way: optional), filtered water tap, and – of course – a wine fridge to chill the exceptionally priced provençal wines available from the local supermarkets. Off the kitchen, a large pantry and laundry room house the necessary logistical provisions. And if a night free from cooking is the order of the day, the team at Domaine de Canaille is on hand to organise a private chef.

The house is interior perfection, every piece of furniture and decoration tastefully selected to provide an understated luxury experience that draws the outside in. There are few words to adequately describe the magnificent views that the house enjoys from its exclusive clifftop location.

The sea and Côte d’Azur coastline are visible from all vantage points in the living space, with architectural features such as internal windows built in to ensure this omnipresent view throughout.

Through French doors, a huge 6500 sq. ft wraparound terrace is one of the most impressive features of the property, offering incredible 180° views from Cap Canaille on the left, all the way to the Calanques of Marseille on the right.

Domaine de Canaille sits within a bay of crystalline turquoise water, best enjoyed first thing in the morning before the yachts and paddle-boarders arrive. The terrace boasts two generous spaces for outdoor living – a large dining space with outdoor lights and heating, and a separate relaxation space with sofas to enjoy some shade in a location that boasts more than 300 days of sunshine per year.

Domaine de Canaille comfortably sleeps 24 people across eleven bedrooms – the perfect number for a group of friends, family reunion or intimate wedding. On the grounds of the house, a separate annexe suite with three twin bedrooms affords a separate, private retreat. During the time of our visit, a wedding has just taken place on the terrace, with long wooden tables, fresh flowers and fairy lights creating an idyllic scene against the endless blue of the Mediterranean Sea. One can’t imagine a more romantic place to celebrate love.

Each bedroom boasts sumptuous furnishings and high quality amenities, all in an understated neutral colour palette, and most with sea view. The Suite Parentale (Master) occupies the top floor of the house, its ceiling arched high under the pitch of the roof. Double French doors open to Juliet balconies over the Anse de l’Arene and its glittering cerulean water – deserted in the early morning as guests awaken before transforming to a thousand shades of gold at sunset.

The Master Suite enjoys two large private terraces at either side, and a huge bathroom with double rain showers, double vanities, and a breathtaking standalone bathtub with panoramic sea view. At night, with the candles lit, it’s the most magical place to relax and watch the waves dance in the moonlight.

Domaine de Canaille is far too beautiful to spend time working, in our opinion. That notwithstanding, there’s a study room adjacent to the Master Suite in case needs must.

The villa offers a whole host of features and activities to keep you occupied during your stay. From the terrace, steps lead to a lower level where a generous pool (heated from April to October) stretches the width of the house, partially shaded by an elegant Aleppo pine tree – a native of the Mediterranean.

The area around the pool is a relaxed space for lounging and sunbathing, dotted with daybeds and cushions, and there’s a convenient outdoor toilet with shower, fridge and coffee machine, and an assortment of pool games.

The pool terrace stretches right to the cliff edge, where a pleasing al fresco set-up offers the ideal sundowner spot.

Domaine de Canaille occupies an area of 60 hectares, ensuring plenty of space for guests to roam and relax. Despite the regular flow of tourists in the area, the house is a haven of peace and quiet, where often the only sound you’ll hear is the lapping of the waves and occasional merriment from a yacht in the bay. There is a sense of seclusion that is unusual on the Côte d’Azur, even extending to a private path that runs directly from the villa to Arène beach.

This quietude makes the house a perfect escape to unwind, detox and regenerate – an ideal setting for its co-owner, Marie Treppoz (a specialist in alternative medicine) to organise regular health and wellbeing retreats at the villa, combining elements of healthy eating, meditative therapies and exercise – all against a backdrop of the most pristine natural beauty.

Marie is also co-founder of the Homanie collection of private rental properties, of which Domaine de Canaille is a proud member. The group offers super luxury villas in France, Spain, Portugal and Italy, where the offering ranges from romantic ski chalets in the Alps to 12th-century Tuscan escapes. Of the entire portfolio, Domaine de Canaille is the most personal and homelike offering.

As should be the case in all good provençal houses, guests will find a pétanque court on the grounds, and there’s also an indoor cinema for cosy nights in.

For the best sunset spot, look no further than the villa’s jacuzzi, perched on a raised hilltop and heated to 38° year-round, offering unbroken views of the sun dipping behind the cliffs in the distance and painting the Cap Canaille in ochre shades.

Guests can also choose from a menu of activities and experiences at the villa, including private wine tasting, water sports such as paddle-boarding, yoga, and boat tours. Just a stone’s throw from the house, the Route des Crêtes is a scenic trail that meanders from Cassis to the colourful town of La Ciotat.

Domaine de Canaille is also situated at the heart of the Calanques National Park, named for the dramatic natural inlets that cut into the coastline, ending in inviting pools of deep turquoise water.

A rewarding (at points physically challenging) hike will take you through Cassis and onto the Calanques of Port Miou, Port Pin and Calanques d’En-vau. Cassis itself is a picturesque coastal town that merits exploring, taking in sights such as the castle, and meandering through cobbled streets lined with bakeries, bistros and wine bars.

Electric bikes are widely available and make it easy to explore the local surroundings, including the many vineyards and wineries. Marseille, France’s second largest city and cultural hub, can be reached by train from Cassis station in half an hour, and Nice in 2.5h.

A stay at Domaine de Canaille should not be taken lightly or treated flippantly; this is an ultra exclusive escape that gives guests unparalleled private access to one of the world’s most sought-after destinations. Every stay here is a special occasion, be it a formal one, such as a wedding or reunion, or just the occasion of enjoying a beautiful spot with endless views of the Mediterranean. Somehow, despite the perfection at every turn, the villa still manages to achieve the sense of staying in a family home. However, every now and again – just when you’re fully relaxed and settled into the comfort of the surroundings – you’ll catch a glimpse of that awe-inspiring view and you’ll suddenly remember that this is far from your average family home; this is Domaine de Canaille.

Domaine de Canaille is rented out as a self-catered, exclusive private villa, for a minimum of three nights.

Prices range from €6000 per night in low season. For weddings, private events, and extras, the Domaine has an onsite events team to support bookings. For best prices, always book through the Domaine de Canaille website directly.

Domaine de Canaille is an exclusive property of the Homanie group of villas.

This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.


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