Madeira is an island with many quirks and idiosyncrasies; not least its weather, which is categorised by a myriad of microclimates (some report as many as 22) bringing all seasons in one day across the small Atlantic outcrop. When one town radiates sunshine, another – just a short drive away – could paint a moodier picture with low-hanging cloud and rain. Understanding how to navigate this climate is tricky for the uninitiated, so imagine our delight when Jorge, co-owner of Les Terrasses Suites, introduces us to the hotel with the news that this is one of the sunniest locations on the island.
Les Terrasses Suites is located a five minute drive from Calheta, the sun-kissed seaside town on the island’s southern coast that boasts beaches, tourism and a great selection of high-end restaurants right on the seafront, specialising in fresh-off-the-boat seafood. Nestled on its hillside, surrounded by a tropical banana plantation, Les Terrasses Suites is a super boutique hotel with just four rooms, opened by partners Jorge and Gabriel in 2019. The couple relocated to Madeira from Spain in search of the more laidback way of life that the island offers, and set up Les Terrasses Suites soon after. The hotel’s name refers to the multi-level architecture of the building, which cascades down different terraces in prime position on the Calheta hills.
Owing to its boutique size and excellent location, you might be lucky to find a vacancy at Les Terrasses Suites. If you do, you’ll have the choice of one of the four stylish suites, all boasting private west-facing terraces – the perfect spot from which to catch a dramatic Madeiran sunset over the sea.
We stayed in Suite One, also called ‘The Bullfighters’, in honour of the colourful artwork above the bed and also a nod to the owners’ heritage. It’s a generous suite in chic, earthy tones, with limewash walls that create a continuation with the nature outside.
In a previous life, the hotel was an old farmhouse used for working the banana plantation, and characterful remnants of this history remain, such as an original exposed stone feature wall in the bathroom.
Bringing natural surroundings to the fore is a cornerstone of the design approach at Les Terrasses Suites. The suites are deliberately minimal, colours muted, and fabrics natural. Each suite provides for self-catering, with a small kitchenette including hob, sink, fridge, microwave and espresso machine.
The suites are equipped with necessary modern conveniences like television with streaming services, air conditioning, and wifi, but Madeira is an island to be explored, and the location provides the perfect jump-off point from which to do so. The bathroom is a generous space with clean edges that features an exhilarating rain shower to refresh after a day spent relaxing by the pool. During our stay, the owners revealed plans to possibly offer a fifth suite to the public, which is currently used to host friends and family.
A stay at Les Terrasses Suites is a very personal experience, owing in large part to the fact that the hotel is also home to Jorge and Gabriel. This is identifiable in the hand-picked approach to details (carefully chosen textiles and bathroom products featuring ingredients from the island, for example), but also in subtle nods to the owners, which are dotted around the property.
The great advantage to this is the personal touch that it adds, affording visitors the impression of staying at a guesthouse or someone’s home as opposed to a faceless hotel. The owners are attentive hosts, always close by if there’s anything you need and more than happy to give recommendations for nearby restaurants or places to visit. It is, however, their home – and this means there are a couple of areas that are off-limits. The tastefully designed outdoor kitchen located at the side of the pool is for private use by the owners, but guests are welcome to relax in the adjacent lounge.
A major highlight of the property is the pool area, which enjoys 180° views from the mountains to the sea. The hillside location means that the pool terrace benefits from sun from morning until night, and dramatic golden sunsets in the evening.
The hours melt away from the comfort of the cushioned daybeds around the pool, which is fitted with glass panelling to offer views of the sea even while swimming.
From a distance, the terraces of the hotel blend seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Banana plants creep for miles towards the mountain valley, creating the quintessential tropical island landscape, while the gardens of Les Terrasses Suites – the handiwork of keen gardener Gabriel – teem with colours, wildlife and heady aromas. Mediterranean olive trees line the pool, and the cascading layers of the property are shrouded in garlands of hanging ivy.
This greenery also provides additional privacy on the terraces of each room, creating a shielded cocoon for the outdoor dining and sitting area. Each terrace has its own sumptuous private daybeds, giving guests the option of relaxation poolside or in the comfort of their own suite. And early rises are well worth the effort as the sun sneaks above an easterly peak, casting morning rays across the landscape in the absolute quiet.
It was the slow-paced, laidback nature of island life that first drew Gabriel and Jorge to Madeira in the first place, and now they’ve created the embodiment of that through Les Terrasses Suites. The aim is to give guests the impression of staying with a friend; to enable spending the day doing whatever your heart tells you, be it a slow day spent by the pool or hiking the dramatic peaks of nearby levadas; it’s to bring visitors as close to nature as possible, while providing beautiful design and the conveniences to make your stay as easy as possible. There is no endorsement greater for a place than the willingness of the owners to live there too, and it’s clear that the couple have created their own miniature tropical paradise.
This hotel is the choice for visitors who favour a boutique and highly personalised experience, enhanced by plenty of impassioned recommendations for making the most of the local area. Prepare to let go of the stresses of daily life and surrender yourself to a slower pace, complete with endless sea views and sun-soaked days.
We stayed
in Suite One, ‘The Bullfighters’, priced from €500 in low season (due to the boutique nature of the property, a minimum 3-night stay is required).
For best rates, book directly through the hotel’s website.
This was a press stay – all opinions are our own.
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