Ca’s Xorc, Mallorca

Spain’s Balearic Islands – reachable in less than an hour by plane from both Barcelona and Valencia – conjure up the romance of balmy summer nights and dancing till dawn like few other places can. Teeming with turquoise coves and beach shacks for long, luxuriated lunches, the islands are the perfect sunny escape for a multitude of travellers, from all-night raves in Ibiza to off-grid country escapes in quieter Menorca.

It can be said that Mallorca, the largest island, has the best of everything the Balearics has to offer. While its southern coast is home to pretty capital Palma, buzzy towns and numerous bright white beaches, the north of the island has always been the favoured spot for those seeking a more refined experience. In the sixties, towns like Sóller and Deià offered a bohemian hideaway in the mountains for artistic communes, creatives and celebrities.

It’s here, located on the road between the two towns and in the heart of the Tramuntana mountains, that we find luxury hotel and hideaway C’as Xorc. We nearly miss the small sign that directs us off the main road and onto a dirt track, all the while our taxi driver mutters profanities under his breath as he navigates the hairpin turns upwards to reach the hotel’s reception. C’as Xorc is a traditional-style Mallorcan farmhouse from the 18th century with stone walls and shuttered windows in sage green. On the front of the house, facing the valley, French doors lead to balconies that look all the way to the Port of Sóller, and from up here – other than the quiet murmur of a passing plane or a car on the road from time to time – only the surrounding nature is audible.

With its cobbled paths and exposed stone swathed in ivy, C’as Xorc is a love letter to old world romance. From a distance, the house sits alone; an imposing structure on the hillside, sprouting from a bed of palm trees and magenta bougainvillea. Hundred-year old olive trees sway in the breeze, and the interiors evoke a sense of spa-like calmness in bright white – the traditional Balearic choice to keep houses cool against the hot summer months.

The Balearics are so loved in part due to the wall-to-wall sunshine that the islands attract all through the year. In fact, the islands enjoy sun for around 300 days of the year, and the winters are mild with temperatures generally staying above 10˚C. That said, our trip just happens to coincide with a meteorological phenomenon: a rare named weather event that has wreaked havoc with Spain’s east coast and brought dramatic electrical storms to the islands.

These gardens are where we spend the majority of time during our stay, wandering through olive groves, enjoying the scent of the hibiscus and lavender plants, and stopping off every now and again at a shaded bench to appreciate the view of the rolling hills below. Breakfast on the panoramic terrace is a special experience as the day warms and the birds and insects explore the vast flora and fauna of the garden. Guests can choose from a buffet selection of local specialties, including Mallorcan cheeses, sobrasada, and eggs made to order. Inside, breakfast dining takes place on a long wooden table to the sound of the open kitchen.

The dining experience is a fundamental part of a stay at C’as Xorc and something that shouldn’t be missed. Barretes restaurant – named for its Head Chef, Pep Lluis Mayol “Barretes” – transforms the hotel in the evenings as guests dine on the terrace by candlelight, watching the sun set behind the mountains. Chef Mayol is a local of the area, having grown up in Sóller, and C’as Xorc holds a special place in his heart as he took on the role of sous chef when the hotel first opened in 2004, following a stint at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Germany. After taking on various positions in the most exclusive hotels and restaurants in the area, he returned in 2008 and then again in 2022 to launch his own permanent restaurant within the hotel.

As with all good restaurants, our waiter immediately brings a stool for bags and an extensive wine list with plenty of local classics. We start with a white port cocktail and move to a fresh white wine from renowned Mallorcan producer Ánima Negra.Every table on the terrace is full, with visitors flocking in from nearby towns and villages to experience Barretes.

The menu features Spanish classics, shining a light on produce – especially fish and seafood – from the island and, in an effort to sample as much of it as possible, we go for a meaty loin of hake on a bed of clams and fried squid, topped with sprigs of rosemary and dill mayonnaise. The menu offers plenty of opportunity to try local specialties but with a haute cuisine twist, such as caramelised onion coca, sobrasada with lamb shoulder, and rice cooked in the traditional Catalan style of “a la llauna’ (in the tin). Dessert is both surprising and decadent: a white chocolate and sweet potato fondant with yuzu flavours. It’s rich, sweet and umami all at the same time, and the ultimate comfort as the chill of evening sets in.

There’s an abundance of things to do and see in the local area: explore the famous towns of Sóller, Deià, and fairytale hilltop villages like Fornalutx; pristine beaches and coves around every bend; a fabulous food and drink scene, including many local wineries and gin houses. However, arguably the best thing to do is absolutely nothing at all.

The surroundings are more than relaxing enough; however, C’as Xorc also offers an extensive wellness menu with treatments ranging from Indian head massage to footwork treatment (the perfect aftercare following a walk or hike in the mountains), and there’s an à la carte offering of yoga classes – privately, as a couple, or in a group setting. It’s recommended to book any treatments in advance to guarantee availability.

At C’as Xorc, guests have the choice between staying in the main farmhouse or a select number of cottages on the finca‘s grounds. We’ve chosen the latter, which come complete with their own private garden with vine-covered dining area and traditional terracotta barbecue. The cottages are generous in size, with a living area, king-sized bedroom and spacious bathroom. It’s a treat to leave dinner on the terrace and walk just a few steps through cicada-filled gardens to reach your cottage to retire for the night, billions of stars visible in the unspoilt skies above.

In the main house, there are three categories of room to choose from (Standard, Superior and Deluxe), all with features that hark back to the farm’s origins, such as traditional-style Mallorcan tile floors, wooden shutters and beamed ceilings. The décor throughout the hotel is in keeping with the style of the region: simple, accents of wood, and plenty of Balearic white.

In its own words, C’as Xorc is a luxury retreat, and everything about the stay lends itself to the true definition of a retreat. It’s calm, secluded, relaxing, and offers plenty of space for contemplation and getting close to nature. Its position high on the hills offers guests the most incomparable real-life landscape painting of a view, and there’s truly no better place to experience sunset than from the infinity pool, feeling like you could almost swim off the edge to the valley below.

Luxury is often best enjoyed as an exclusive experience and this was certainly the case during our stay, where we often had the pool, jacuzzi and outdoor spaces entirely to ourselves – a secluded retreat to unwind in privacy. It’s for this reason and many more that C’as Xorc is often mentioned in lists of most romantic stays, or featured as a wedding or honeymoon destination. With regular flights to Mallorca from almost any European destination, there’s no excuse needed to escape the chaos of home and seek solace in this perfect little farmhouse in the Mallorcan mountains – rain, shine, or electrical storm.

We stayed
in the Garden Cottage, priced from €470 per two night stay (note that C’as Xorc is available to book for a minimum of two nights), including breakfast.
For best rates and special offers, book directly through C’as Xorc’s website.

We dined at Barretes restaurant
Ánima Negra Quíbia white wine – €7/glass or €31/bottle
Hake loin with baby squid, clams and dill mayonnaise – €36
White chocolate, sweet potato and yuzu fondant – €12

This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.