It feels like the word ‘institution’ is used for just about anything these days. But there is no truer culinary institution in Marrakech than the Grand Café de la Poste.
Built during the French protectorate period in the 1920s, it was the first building in the Guéliz (new town) area of the city and – as the name suggests – was a post office with café.
Even then it was understood that the Grand Café was something special and it became a popular meeting place for legendary local names like artist Jacques Majorelle of the Majorelle Gardens fame.
Today, the Grand Café has retained every inch of its past splendour and continues to be one of – perhaps the – most elegant and iconic places to dine in Marrakech. It’s a bastion of colonial architecture and design – a stark contrast to the modernity of today’s Guéliz – and its French legacy strongly endures, felt through the menu, ambience and even the management.
We’re greeted by the Café’s Director Eric Conte, who joined in 2004 when the restaurant reopened after a twelve year closure. As Eric shows us around it’s hard to believe that somewhere so spectacular could be kept behind closed doors for such a long time.
The central focal point is the Café’s sweeping double staircase, which leads you first through a sitting area designed to be replica of Winston Churchill’s salon, and then to an upper floor – a more informal space where live jazz is played by local musicians (Eric explains that the parallels between jazz and Moroccan Gnawa music make it a popular choice with locals).
Banquettes and leather armchairs create an effortless environment – but don’t be fooled: interior design heavyweights Studio KO (Chiltern Firehouse, YSL Museum Marrakech) were called in to painstakingly restore the interior to a replica of its original art deco glory.
Eric suggests that we start with champagne, of course – in the style of true French hospitality it’s more a statement than a question – and amuse bouche of bread and olive tapenade.
Given the choice, we dine outside (it’s late February but it’s still warm enough) on the colonial-style veranda. Alcohol laws in Marrakech are such that public consumption of alcohol isn’t permitted, but the tree-lined veranda area is shielded enough to allow guests to enjoy a glass of wine al fresco.
The menu at le Grand Café resembles that of a classic French brasserie, but Chef Philippe Duranton introduces clear nods to local flavours and Moroccan favourites.
We start with a tian of spider crab from Oualidia and avocado, and a fresh salad of endives, roquefort and walnuts. The bitterness of the endives perfectly mellowed by the cheese – a classic French combination.
For the main course we order skewers of deliciously meaty monkfish served with curry and white rice, and a more local choice: beef kefta tagine with eggs and cinnamon semolina. I haven’t had semolina since childhood and am a little skeptical about the combination, but the dish achieves the unique fusion of sweet, savoury and spice that Moroccan cuisine does so well.
The veranda is buzzing with activity, catering for locals and tourists alike. At the time of visiting, international tourism has just reopened in Morocco post-pandemic and it seems patrons have wasted no time in returning to this much-loved spot.
We’re still soaking in the surroundings when dessert arrives, and mine is almost too exquisite to eat: a Grand Marnier soufflé – perfectly cooked, piping hot as I break open the top, the orange of the liqueur infusing the steam.
It’s tough competition but our second choice of a soft-centre chocolate cake and ice cream is another excellent selection.
We’re reluctant to leave but, as the last patrons standing, it’s probably time. Getting into a taxi and passing the shiny shopping centres and fast food restaurants of Guéliz feels like climbing back through the looking glass after an otherworldly adventure. The atmosphere is something very special and it merits visiting to experience for yourself.
We’re not worried that this will be our last visit to le Grand Café de la Poste; it’s been serving guests on this same spot at Place du 16 Novembre for the last 100 years and it has no intention of stopping anytime soon.
We ate
Oualidia spider crab and avocado – 165MAD
Endive and roquefort salad – 175MAD
Monkfish skewers with curry and white rice – 150MAD
Beef kefta tagine with cinnamon semolina – 185MAD
Soft-centre chocolate cake – 85MAD
Grand Marnier soufflé – 83MAD
More info at: https://www.en.grandcafedelaposte.restaurant/
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