Spain’s Balearic islands sit directly in the path of the Tramontana wind – a northerly gust so powerful that it’s made its way into Catalan vernacular; the phrase “tocat per la Tramuntana” (touched by the Tramontana) is used to describe someone who is acting in an odd or disturbing way.
The cold front also happens to create perfect wine-making conditions when mixed together with the hot, humid temperatures and high minerality of the subsoil on the islands. We are all too happy to test the theory, and have chosen the vineyard of Bodegas Binifadet for our experiment, located just 9 miles outside Menorca’s capital, Mahón.
Binifadet forms part of Menorca’s Bonita restaurant group, which also owns beach-front restaurant Tamarindos on the northern coast, and Cantina, on the tiny Illa del Rei island just off the coast of Mahón. On an island where visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to dining, the Bonita brand specialises in locations that provide an incomparable experience as well as excellent food and wine.
On the July day when we visit Bodegas Binifadet, the Tramontana is especially vocal. Following endless days of sun, an island storm is brewing and the skies are a heavy grey. “Can you believe how lucky we are?! This never happens in July!” exclaims our guide as we start the tour through the vineyard against a backdrop of thunder and lightning.
Bodegas Binifadet was founded in 2001 by engineer Carlos Angles. Having relocated to Barcelona for work, Angles began to suffer from the renowned “island syndrome” and was pulled back to Menorca in the late ’70s. He built a house here and planted vines with forty different varieties of grape, and was amazed by the high quality wine he was able to produce. He purchased the land on which the Bodegas sit today in 2001, and planted 38 plots (tancas) using some of the varieties from his own garden.
The thunder overhead threatens as we stand at Tanca 12, the plot that produces Binifadet’s top seller: a prize-winning chardonnay by the same name. Our guide explains that each individual tanca has its own microclimate, and therefore each wine its own taste and personality. Menorca is the coolest of the Balearic islands, making for wines that are light and aromatic, and the the vast majority of the wines produced by Binifadet are enjoyed by fellow islanders, with 80% of bottles staying here.
The tour takes us downstairs to the cellar where the wines are fermented and stored, some aged in oak barrels, and all with minimum intervention.
Visitors to Bodegas Binifadet can choose to take part in the full experience via a tour and tasting package, or can simply come to eat in the beautiful outdoor restaurant overlooking the vineyards. We opt for the full experience, enjoying an interactive group wine tasting, where we’re encouraged to choose the wines we’d most like to try. The Tanca 13 rosé is a perfect apéritif wine; the Merluzo white is an easy-drinking, everyday bottle; we sample a sparkling white made with 100% chardonnay; and we, of course, opt for a glass of Tanca 12 – the best-rated wine produced in the Balearic islands.
Even if the wine tasting element doesn’t appeal, we’d highly recommend a visit to the bodega for the dining experience alone; The restaurant is an open terrace with draping vines and wine bottles fashioned into hanging lanterns.
The sun is sitting low by the time we finish the 5.30pm tour, casting a golden sunset sheen over the tables and vineyards beyond.
Binifadet serves an impressive menu focussing on the very best of Menorcan produce. The local specialities on offer include appetisers like coca bread, ensaïmada, and sobrasada next to heartier island favourites such as pork cheek and grilled fish.
We put our faith in the hands of the staff and ask for their favourite selection of dishes and accompanying wines. The first dish is a cold cream of leek and courgette with mushrooms. It’s a creamy but delicate twist on gazpacho, made with the freshest seasonal vegetables. We try the board of Iberian ham and coca bread with tomato – the sort of bread so satisfyingly crispy that it should be eaten with care.
The smoked raw entrecôte of beef arrives, the earthiness of the meat cutlets softened with tangy spice of ajoblanco and capers. We finish with a board of artisan Menorcan cheeses which, of course, includes the local speciality: Mahón DOP, its distinctive saltiness deriving from the sea salt content in the grass eaten by the island’s cows.
The Tanca 12 is a fresh companion to the creamier dishes, served refreshingly chilled on this humid, stormy day. The Two Tancas red (merlot, syrah and cabernet) pairs well with the entrecôte, and we opt for a glass of the orange wine – a relatively recent production for the bodega – to complement the sharp saltiness of the cheeses.
We’ve made the fatal mistake of running out of space before dessert. A real shame when there’s baked Mahón cheesecake on the menu.
Afternoon has given way to evening and the wine tour visitors have mostly dissipated. The restaurant is abuzz with both locals and tourists, enjoying Menorca’s finest produce in this special setting. The storm clouds have burned off and it’s another perfect Balearic sunset; the Tramontana barely perceptible now as it breathes its magic over the vineyard, no doubt creating another award-winning recipe for next year’s harvest.
Bodegas Binifadet is located in the town of San Lluis, a ten minute drive from Mahón. You can book a wine tour/tasting or a make a dinner reservation online via the website.
We ate (sharing dishes)
Iberian ham, coca bread with tomato board – €26
Menorcan artisan cheeseboard – €16
Smoked raw entrecôte with ajoblanco and capers – €18
Cold cream of leek and courgette with mushrooms – €10.50
We drank
Tanca no 12 chardonnay – €6.80/15cl
2 Tancas red – €7.20/15cl
Pieles orange – €6.80/15cl
Tasting tours take place every day in Spanish (1pm and 7pm) and in English (11.30am and 5.30pm) – €15 for one hour.
This was a press visit – all opinions are our own
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