While Belgium may not enjoy the same worldwide renown as its European neighbours, it’s a country with a rich tradition of bold architecture and cutting-edge design. From links to the beginnings of Surrealism to hidden Art Nouveau flourishes at every turn, the country’s designers display an innovative flair (for good and for bad – we’ve all seen the viral Ugly Belgian Houses).
What better way to experience the Belgian aesthetics first-hand than to stay in a traditional Brussels townhouse, right in the centre of the capital? And even better if that house happens to be in the city’s most artistic quartier, surrounded by independent galleries, hipster cafés, and the eclectic Jeu de Balle fleamarket. We’re talking about La Maison Haute – named for its location on the trendy Rue Haute – a former family home-cum-hardware store in a past life, before it was bought by Sébastien and his family in 2012 and converted into a design-led guesthouse.
The house takes the form of a traditional Belgian sousplex, comprising the area that would have been the family’s quarters occupying the back of the house, the kitchen, taking advantage of the cooler temperatures of the basement, and a commercial space forming a street-facing shop front.
When they took over the building, it was important to the new owners to maintain the original layout and spirit, and they partnered with a local soap business to set up shop at the front of the Maison Haute (more on this later).
Upstairs, this super-boutique hotel has just four bedroom suites, each with its own distinctive design and character. The loft duplex is a calming space entirely in bright white, but kept cosy under the sloping eaves of the top floor. The other three rooms – Vegetal, Jungle and Vivienne – each have their own eye-catching signature design in bold prints and vibrant colours.
We are staying in the Vivienne suite on the first floor – a dramatic space the size of a generous studio apartment, with white-washed wooden floors, plenty of built-in storage, and walls enveloped in a striking monochrome print that gives the impression of being in a life-sized stereogram.
From the ceiling, a daisy chain of dainty flower lamps hang in a square around the bed, and bedside sconces chameleon against the wall behind lampshades in the same monochrome design. In one corner, a built-in alcove houses a sitting area with wooden dining table and chairs, and a television is tucked away into another recess.
Just off the bedroom, the room opens onto a double vanity unit, and separate rooms host a large rain shower and WC. Folded on the vanity unit, crisp white towels carry the same fragrant soapiness that perfumes the whole guesthouse – a pleasant hangover from the aforementioned soap business that previously occupied the shopfront. Despite this business having moved to a separate premises on the Rue Haute several years ago, the scent of soap from the storage area in the basement prevails, filling the house with distinctive floral notes.
La Maison Haute is currently the only hotel in the Marolles area, and its location is the star of the show. Most of the bedrooms are designed to make the most of this, with double French windows that open to offer prime people-watching over the street below.
Our own room enjoys views to the gilded dome of the Palais de Justice (feat. the now-famous scaffolding, which has been in situ for the last 40 years and will remain until at least 2030) and, in certain months, the perpetual rotation of the ferris wheel on Place Poelart.
We while away the afternoon behind these windows, watching the throngs of fashionable Bruxellois natives weaving in and out of the vintage shops and galleries below.
It should be mentioned that this is central Brussels, and a lively area both day and night. It can be a blessing and a curse, as the noise from the street can filter through the double-glazing to the bedrooms. La Maison Haute is well-prepared with earplugs provided on the bedside tables. We had a good night’s sleep without any earplugs, but light sleepers will appreciate this extra touch.
La Maison Haute does not have a permanent reception, giving guests the freedom to come and go as they please; however Sébastien is always close by for any concerns or questions.
This level of flexibility makes the guesthouse equally suitable for longer-term stays as for short city breaks – particularly appealing in Brussels, a city where EU and government officials regularly need a place to stay for extended periods.
Despite there being just four rooms, there’s plenty of space to relax in the Maison Haute. A communal sitting room on the first floor, painted in deep red hues, offers a good selection of complimentary tea and coffee, available 24h. Chairs and tables provide an alternative working/relaxation area, and coffee table books on art and design act as a reminder that you’re in the city’s most creative neighbourhood.
Downstairs, the area formerly occupied by the soap shop is now a sort of library/sitting room, serving as an occasional reception room when the owners are in situ. A double door entry system provides additional security in the absence of a permanent reception.
Unusually for a guesthouse without reception, breakfast is provided as part of the room booking. While you might expect a basic self-serve cereal bar, we were very pleasantly surprised to learn that breakfast is done slowly and well, served in a charming rustic-style dining room on the ground floor. White tiles cover the room, from walls to ceiling, and a cast iron fireplace in the corner nods to the tradition and history of the property.
Breakfast is a personalised experience, with bread and pastries made that day and delivered fresh from a bakery run by a friend of the owners. The pain au chocolat (which is extra decadent with a chocolate exterior as well as interior) falls apart into a buttery, flaky mess on our plate.
Coffee is freshly made, served alongside a platter of fresh fruit and orange juice. The cheese and bacon omelette we’ve ordered – made with local Belgian produce – is of generous proportions, and we’re struggling to finish everything. It’s the ideal breakfast to set guests up for a day of sightseeing in the city.
Where generic chains prevail in Brussels, La Maison Haute offers something quite unique. A stay here is an ideal way to get even closer to the local experience on your trip to the capital; A traditional Brussels house, owned by a Belgian family, and right in the heart of the city’s most buzzing neighbourhood – it doesn’t get more authentic than that. Given the choice of the whole city, this location is exactly where we’d choose to stay, and the fact that La Maison Haute is currently the only accommodation option is a major commercial advantage for the owners and their guests; the other hotels are definitely missing a trick.
We stayed
in the Vivienne room, priced from €150 per room per night including freshly-made breakfast
For best rates, book directly via the hotel’s website.
This was a press stay – all opinions are our own.
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