Nothing good comes easily, as the saying goes, so we’re excited for what awaits us as our driver navigates the twenty or so minutes of bumpy single-track road, meandering through small villages and past imposing temples to reach Kahanda Kanda.
No sooner have we arrived, we’re doused in a powerful rain shower (the first signs of the incoming monsoon season). As if by magic, a team of attentive staff members quickly shield us with branded umbrellas and lead us to reception, where a chilled welcome drink is the ideal remedy against the humid afternoon.
Entering the hotel feels in some small way like visiting a temple. There’s a sense of ethereal calm as you climb the entrance staircase and take in your first glimpses of the place.
Ponds scattered with lily pads among which dozens of koi fish paddle, plants in woven baskets swaying gently from the branches of trees, statues of Kandyan monarchs paying tribute to the rich history and traditions of the surrounding land.
All of this centres around a large pagoda-style building – the reception and bar area, where today guests sit cross-legged on cushioned window seats playing one of the hotel’s parlour games (this particular one an expensive-looking draughts set with heavy metal pieces). The pagoda is entirely open, allowing in a gentle breeze and the low murmur of wildlife from the surrounding forests, which stretch to the horizon in every direction. Although Kahanda Kanda is just a twenty minute drive from the coastal city of Galle, it feels like a secluded retreat in the heart of nature.
This must have felt even more acutely the case when owner George Cooper arrived to the then-empty site in 1996. At that time, he was retracing the steps of his great grandfather, an Englishman who came to Sri Lanka around 1860 and purchased two rubber plantations. The family connection already existing, George – a successful interior designer back in the UK – set about building a holiday home with five guest rooms.
He made the decision to permanently relocate in 2005, during a time of great turbulence for Sri Lanka: the country was enduring a brutal civil war, and the first years of business were tough until the war ended in 2009. A stroke of luck came in the form of the England cricket team, who were visiting Sri Lanka for a tournament and needed a place to stay. Work quickly began to expand the hotel, which today boasts twelve private bungalows.
Luxury at Kahanda Kanda comes in the form of privacy, space, and unique design. No two rooms are the same, and nine of the twelve bungalows have their own private pool.
Each one has its own special defining feature, be it the infinity pool that overlooks miles of jungle, the room with the outdoor bathtub, or the Javanese-style honeymoon villa (dubu), which takes the idea of luxury to a whole new level.
This latter suite was originally built as George’s personal home, with roof timbers, carved wood and 24 columns imported from Indonesia to recreate the aesthetic of a Joglo house. It comprises one enormous reception/bedroom, moody in dark wood, and enveloped by a wraparound verandah. A huge four-posted bed forms the centrepiece beneath the most intricate carved wooden ceiling. The décor features elements of Sri Lanka’s colonial history (a wooden dresser displaying dainty plates of bone china; vintage posters depicting the beginnings of Sri Lankan tourism) while remaining faithful to modern south Asian design.
One of the unique qualities of Kahanda Kanda is the expanse of space afforded to guests. Every bungalow comprises a generous living/sleeping area, most with four posters beds, open-plan bathroom spaces (a number of these are indoor-outdoor, with showers or baths outside), and their own private garden area. The twin bungalow and adjoining double can be merged into a larger family room by way of a connecting verandah.
The first order of the day is a dip in our private pool – best enjoyed during a brief rainstorm when the water is pleasantly warm against the cold showers – and admiring the meticulous attention to detail, from our own personal umbrellas outside the door to his and hers linen dressing gowns and woven sun hats.
Due to its proximity to Galle, guests can easily arrange a tuktuk to go for dinner in town, but don’t miss the chance to experience the culinary offering at Kahanda Kanda.
We visit the reception bar for a pre-dinner gin and tonic – ubiquitous in Sri Lanka due to its colonial history, the quinine in the tonic doubling as a deterrent for mosquitos. This will be one of many gin and tonics we sample during our trip, but it stands out as the best.
The menu features highlights of Sri Lankan cuisine: traditional curries with all the trimmings, pittu, dishes packed full of fresh seafood, and all complemented with garnishes of fresh fruit, herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s grounds. The menu also features a good selection of Thai dishes owing to the fact that two of the chefs have honed their culinary skills in Thailand.
When we return to the room after dinner, we find that a turndown service has taken place, the bed scattered with fresh flowers. With the lights dimmed, the shutters closed, and the mosquito nets lowered, there’s nothing left but to settle into the softness of the luxury bedding for the night.
As is the case in much of Sri Lanka, the local breakfast has to be pre-ordered due to the intricacy of all the components, so we wake up excited to try Sri Lankan hoppers for the first time.
The spread far exceeds our expectations: a starting selection of fresh fruit salad (much of which from the hotel’s garden, including papaya that the staff swear is the best we’ll try) and fresh juice before the main event arrives: hoppers (pancake-like bowls of rice flour and coconut milk – plain and egg variety), noodle-like string hoppers, and several miniature pots of curry, daal, sambol and garnishes.
It’s a hearty breakfast that tides you over through lunch – ideal fuel for a day spent exploring the cobbled streets and windy shoreline of Galle.
And speaking of sightseeing in Galle: be sure to factor in a visit to Kahanda Kanda’s beach club property, KK Beach, located on the outskirts of the city. The style is completely different – a more modern property with a simple beachcomber design and a seafront swimming pool. Kahanda Kanda runs a complimentary tuk tuk shuttle service to KK Beach, making it even easier to enjoy the seaside spoils.
When we visit KK Beach, we’re astounded by the location on a secluded stretch of palm-lined, pristine beach. There’s not another soul. We take our gin and tonics to-go and wander along the sand, the sole footprints for miles.
We initially assume that this is down to the rainy weather on the day of our visit, but George assures us that the stretch is quiet even in the high season when other beaches along the coast are inundated with tourists.
Back at Kahanda Kanda, we take some time to explore the grounds, wandering through the tea fields (witnessing some tea picking live in action) and relax by the shared pool area. When the hotel was first designed, George worked with the architect to ensure that everything was kept as open as possible, avoiding barrier walls between indoor and outdoor in the common areas to maximise the views.
Partial walls in the garden are painted in rich pinks and oranges, chosen to reflect the different hues of the robes worn by Sri Lanka’s Buddhist monks. Subtle architectural features like angled window-frames expertly draw the eye toward the horizon.
There is a selection of activities and experiences on offer, including Sri Lankan cooking classes that take place in a traditional-style hut, guided cycling tours, and excursions to visit local beauty spots such as Koggala Lake. Guests can arrange spa experiences, and a dedicated outdoor pavilion serves as an al fresco yoga studio.
Kahanda Kanda also boasts one of the most scenic fitness suites we’ve ever seen, with treadmills looking out over nothing but miles of dense forest.
As our first stop in Sri Lanka, Kahanda Kanda has set the bar impossibly high. Quality is the clear thread running through every element – from the unique design flourishes to the delectable dinner menu that encompasses local flavours, often picked fresh from the garden. The privacy and space afforded to guests is unmatched, and the team has created perfect blend of seclusion coupled with easy access to the local area. The seamless connection between Kahanda Kanda and KK Beach means that guests can dine by the beach with the costs transferred directly to their final bill.
The key to the success of Kahanda Kanda lies with owner George and his inimitable approach to the importance of detail. At breakfast we watch as he wanders from table to table, getting to know his guests and passionately explaining the journey that brought his vision to life. Kahanda Kanda strives for excellence across all facets, underpinned by a well-trained and attentive team. Guests leave well fed, relaxed, educated, cared for, and just maybe having experienced the best gin and tonic that Sri Lanka has to offer.
We stayed
in the Nelum bungalow – Plantation Pool Villa with private pool, priced from $160 per night in low season, including an excellent breakfast (half-board options also available).
We ate
Traditional Sri Lankan hoppers breakfast
Local seafood curry served with pittu
Sri Lankan fish curry with sambal, daal, okra, rice and poppadoms
This was a press stay – all opinions are our own
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