Unbeknownst to us, we’d already photographed The Edison before arriving to check in. If Malaysia is a melting pot of cultures, Penang is really where the recipe develops its flavour; an island full of history, folklore, and an architect’s dream when it comes to the mixing together of different styles and techniques, each reflecting a period in the history of a destination that has been home to many people from many places. And The Edison – as well as the street on which it’s situated – is a perfect example of this mélange.
We first pass the colonial-style mansion in the late afternoon, when the sun is low in the sky. Its white walls are cast in faint orange by the sun, contrasting against the sage green of the wooden shutters that cover the property’s enormous windows.
The house could be a manor somewhere in the British countryside with its corniced façade, white columns and Baroque-style crown mouldings; the wooden shutters, however, give away the tropical location.
In the turning circle of the driveway, a fountain contains ornate oriental-style statues depicting dragons and Eastern landscapes. Across the road from the house sits one of Penang’s most iconic examples of Chinese design, Cheong Fatt Tze Blue Mansion.
Once inside the door, passing a plaque that boasts The Edison’s membership of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels group, the architectural exploration continues. It’s a grand reception hall with high ceilings and several twisting staircases to the upper floor. The moody colour palette and dark wood floors create a sense of almost spa-like quiet until you reach halfway down the room, where the hall is flooded with light from an open-air courtyard. This is a spot that we regularly return to throughout our stay, resting in the patch of sunlight that flows directly through the building. Umbrellas and loungers in this area mean guests can enjoy the unique experience of indoor-outdoor relaxation.
The tiles on the reception floors are familiar – almost identical to so many Victorian-era buildings in the UK – and the rust red iron columns that encircle the atrium bear markings that indicate they arrived here from Glasgow, Scotland. Clearly, this house belonged to someone with a taste for the exotic, and a wealth that could afford such extravagant finds.
The owner in question is wealthy hakka tycoon named Yeo Wee Gark, who commissioned renowned architect David Nathanial in 1906. As this period coincided with a golden age for industry and production in the UK, no expense was spared by the tycoon in ordering exotic Minton tiles from the north of England and decorative wrought iron from Macfarlane and Co, Scotland’s most prolific producer of Victorian-era architectural iron. It must have been a lengthy and expensive construction project, but the result is one of Penang’s most spectacular living legacies of the past.
For this reason, guests have the sense that they’re spending the night in a time capsule, where they can explore at their leisure without opening times or entry fees.
Much like our first glimpse of the building, the experience of The Edison begins even before we’ve stepped foot under the decorative entrance porch. Ahead of our arrival, the team has sent us a detailed list of their favourite spots in the city for sightseeing, drinking, and – of course – eating. These recommendations go on to be some of the most exquisite meals we experience in Penang, right down to specifying particularly good dishes to sample in each locale.
We follow their advice for underground speakeasy bars where we sample pandan rice wine and Michelin-recommended establishments at very reasonable prices. The list is also divided by the many sub-sets and branches of Penang cuisine, from Nyonya (Chinese-Malay), to Indian fusion, to street food and every variation in between. We follow the guide religiously, from the city’s best Char Koey Teoh (found at a night market) to the oldest nasi kandar. And the culinary experience doesn’t stop here; The Edison also offers a 24-7 complimentary pantry where guests can help themselves to unlimited midnight snacks or cold beverages to enjoy by the pool.
This is a place to be savoured and enjoyed like a museum, imagining what it might have been like to live here all those years ago.
Two staircases at either side of the atrium lead to the upper floor with its polished floors and vaulted wooden ceilings with detailed crown mouldings round the border. Yellow glass surrounds the atrium, casting a sunny glow onto the dark wood of the upper floor.
The atmosphere is still and peaceful save for the quiet whirring of ceiling fans, adding to the colonial-era surroundings. For a mansion filled with such ornate detail, deliberate effort has been made to keep the interiors as simple as possible, letting the building speak for itself.
Our room – one of 35 – is also stylishly sparse: high ceilings, low lighting, accents of bottle green and burgundy in keeping with the rest of the interiors. The furnishings are also deliberately minimalist (even more so with the palatial ceilings) with just a bed, reading corner, and dresser. Through a set of heavy green curtains, a spacious bathroom is naturally lit by traditional sash windows. The dressing gowns hanging on the wall are perfectly reflective of the surroundings: light, elegant, kimono-style robes in the same deep purple and green. Pops of teal bring a sense of serenity all through the house.
The hotel also provides a nightly turndown service – a real treat to return to following an evening amidst the hustle and bustle of the night markets. The service – like the interiors – is simple and elegant. The management, waiting team, and reception staff are friendly, knowledgeable, and ooze pride for the city in which they’ve grown up or come to call their home. Here, the standards are high, but everyone is welcome.
We’ve arrived just at the right time. The Edison hosts a nightly wine hour, where guests are invited to gather on the outdoor terrace to enjoy a complimentary glass of wine and snacks. It’s here that we get to know the other guests who have chosen The Edison as their destination in Penang: honeymooners from the UK, retired Harvard lecturers, a small tour group from Asia.
All have the same purpose in common: they’ve chosen to come here for the relaxed vibe, the personal service, and the fascinating historical surroundings. And all have already made full use of the comprehensive food recommendations list.
Wine hour takes place on a covered outdoor terrace complete with upholstered booths and kept cool with overhead fans. It’s a rarity for a hotel in the historical centre of Penang to boast this sort of outdoor space, but more unusual still is that the terrace houses a swimming pool – a long stretch of emerald water shaded under a canopy of trees.
Around the pool, the loungers, umbrellas, and towels complement the aesthetic in chic bottle green and white stripes. Penang is a destination for seeing, doing, and exploring. We walk tens of thousands of steps, spend hours sightseeing, hike to hillside monasteries and trawl markets.
On returning to our hotel at the end of the day, there’s no sweeter cure-all than a dip in this glorious pool beneath the leaves, and even better that we’re the only ones using it on this particular sunny afternoon.
If you’re looking to experience the full peace and quiet reflection that The Edison encapsulates, we recommend a visit to the hotel’s library. It’s a romantic, low-lit space where you’re transported to a different time, surrounded by trinkets, history books, and monochrome pictures of bygone-era Penang. With the blinds drawn, it’s the perfect space to escape the midday heat and curl up on one of the armchairs with a rare book.
The historic walls of The Edison whisper the stories of another world and of the illustrious owners that came before. In every corner, seemingly small details tell tales of long voyages across the sea, and glimmers of gold, marble and wrought iron speak of complicated history and colonial power. However, this is a place reclaiming its history, telling a story that exudes pride in the diversity of Penang and offering the warmest of welcomes against a backdrop of timeless elegance. The Edison achieves a relaxed vibe in palatial surroundings, where guests are invited to mingle and feel at home.
At the time of our visit, we investigated booking a visit to the Blue Mansion, only to find that slots sell out weeks or even months in advance. By contrast, waking up in The Edison after our real-life night at the museum almost feels like we’re privy to some extraordinary secret of a living museum that few others have discovered.
We dine on a hearty breakfast of nasi goreng before settling in beside one of the only swimming pools in the heart of the old town. No queues, no online booking, no crowds. The Edison is undoubtedly the best-kept secret in Penang.
We stayed
in a Deluxe Premium room, priced from 648 ringgit per night, including a complimentary breakfast.
All guests benefit from a 24/7 complimentary pantry of snacks and soft drinks, as well as a nightly wine hour.
For best rates and offers, book directly through The Edison’s website.
This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.
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