As we edge further north, all signs subtly indicate that we’ve entered Loch Ness Monster country. There’s the tiny airport – surely designed primarily for tourists from far-flung places in search of a sighting, the bright green paraphernalia that can be spotted inside the windows of passing gift shops, and – the biggest clue – the grey-black waters of the loch itself. It’s Scotland’s deepest, plunging to unimaginable depths (plenty of room for a monster) and bringing with it a lifetime of stories, myths and legends. Perhaps owing to this folklore, there’s something quite magic in the air up here near Inverness – bitterly cold at the tail-end of winter, but bright, crisp and clean.
We’re on our way to Eagle Brae, a collection of luxury wood cabins set on an exclusive stretch of the Highlands that has been in its owners’ family for generations. Our journey takes us first to Inverness, Scotland’s sixth city, where we make a quick pitstop for the best fish and chips we’ve ever had (shout out to McLeod’s of Inverness), following the path of the North Sea that hugs the coast until the radio loses signal and we’re well and truly off-grid. A short drive for 20 minutes or so leads us to a discreet carved wooden sign, directing us off the main country road and onto the grounds of Eagle Brae.
It’s dark by the time we arrive. Really dark. Owing to its off-grid location, Eagle Brae enjoys some of the darkest skies in Scotland, and tonight we’re treated to the full extent of this as we step out of the car to see the sky glowing in faint green and red – a warm welcome from the Northern lights, which are unusually regular these days due to a unique solar phenomenon. No longer do tourists have to venture to remote corners of the northern hemisphere to catch a glimpse of the elusive aurora; Here, we can enjoy it from the comfort of our very own cabin.
Eagle Brae is a family project and a labour of love, founded in 2013 by husband and wife team, Mike and Pawana. First came the land – 8000 acres of highland countryside Estate that has been in Mike’s family for several generations. It’s a glorious stretch of rugged wilderness, home to forest and lochs and an idyllic valley that can only be accessed with special permission – a perk of staying with locals.
Then came the desire to share this pristine spot with others, creating a reason for guests to come from far and wide to experience it.
A photobook on display within the lodge documents, in photos, the journey of Eagle Brae from its inception to the luxury escape it is today. These wooden cabins are the first of their kind in Scotland, and building them involved several trips to Canada to find the right design and source the right wood. The interior is made up of enormous wooden tree trunks, giving the impression of a ski chalet. The photo book also recounts visits to the town in Northern India from where Pawana hails, where local craftspeople created the intricate wooden carvings visible all around the house and on all signage throughout the property. Upstairs, an impressive wooden chandelier made to resemble deer antlers talks to the rich hunting tradition in this part of rural Scotland.
We’ve travelled 4h from Glasgow to get here, and our journey is rewarded with the warmest of welcomes: a gift basket packed full of treats that represent the best of Scotland, and some personal touches that set the tone for our stay: elderflower cordial, Highland rowan jam, chutney – all lovingly handmade by Pawana; shortbread biscuits and Highland gin; postcards of the property and incense sticks (another nod to Pawana’s heritage); even the basket – which guests are invited to take home – is woven by hand using local wood from the land.
It’s an immediate introduction to the family and the highly personalised experience you should expect from Eagle Brae. Before arrival, a welcome email invites us to pre-order home-cooked warm meals and even arrange for groceries to be delivered to the chalet ahead of our arrival. They’ve thought of everything to remove any possible inconvenience, leaving guests to enjoy a totally hassle-free experience.
The interior of the chalet nods to its Highland roots with tartan wool blankets draped over armchairs and products from Arran Sense of Scotland in the bathroom, alongside soap hand-made using ingredients from the land.
Our chalet, Ardea, features its own private indoor sauna, which can be scented using a selection of hand-mixed aromatherapy oils prepared by Pawana herself. It’s a full-size family bathroom with bath and shower, and complemented with plenty of products.
Ardea is designed for up to four people, with a large master bedroom on the ground floor. It’s a bright room with luxe soft furnishings, Tiffany-style lamps, tartan cushions, and walls decorated with depictions of nature and the landscape.
The master bedroom boasts a set of French doors that open out onto an enormous wooden terrace, offering 180° views of completely unspoiled and rugged countryside.
We wake up early in the morning when the whole vista is sprinkled with a light dusting of frost, and have to double-take when we discover a whole family of deer within touching distance of the chalet. For nature lovers, this is paradise. We’ll see these same deer regularly throughout our stay, paying daily visits to our chalet and happily chomping grass in the front garden as we cook breakfast inside.
The wooden verandah that wraps around the chalet is an impressive space from which to enjoy the beauty of the surroundings in all weather and seasons. There’s a large wooden dining table and chairs – carved from the same wood as the chalet – provide the perfect spot to eat dinner outdoors on warm summer nights (fingers crossed the famous Scottish midges won’t join you). And guests are free to be as ambitious as they like when it comes to cooking, as the kitchen is fully stocked with all the pots, pans and utensils you could need to prepare meals over an extended visit. Alternatively, why not just order more of the delicious homemade meals from the concierge service menu.
Eagle Brae is designed for any type of experience you desire: large chalets for get-togethers and family reunions, smaller versions with additional features like saunas for romantic breaks as a couple or a getaway with friends. Dogs are welcome and well-provided for (Mike and Pawana’s own dog can be regularly seen roaming the grounds), and the lodges are well-provisioned for children, and can accommodate remote working. Inside our own chalet, a set of carved wooden stairs leads to a more casual upstairs living space with television, workspace, and two of the most adorable single beds carved into miniature cabins in the wall. It’s the sort of bedroom that a child would dream of, and one that wouldn’t be out of place in Enid Blyton’s Faraway Tree, each separated from the living room by individual curtains which, when drawn, transform them into miniature private cabins with lights for bedtime reading or midnight feasts.
Eagle Brae offers a plethora of experiences and activities to get the best out of your stay – from detailed descriptions of favourite walks to cultural stops and restaurants in the nearby area. For the adrenalin junkies, there’s canoeing, target shooting and mountain biking, and plenty of opportunities to get closer to the local nature, such as pony trekking and grouse safaris.
One of the easier activities is a brisk meander up to Eagle Brae’s very own hydro pump, from which you can see rows of snow-capped mountains in the distance. The hydro is an important feature of being able to offer a proudly carbon-neutral experience.
Eagle Brae champions sustainability through its operation, including thoughtful architectural choices such as moss-covered roofs to ensure the lodges blend seamlessly into their surroundings.
The chilly Highland air on the walk provides the perfect excuse to dial up the cosiness factor on our return to the lodge. We fire up the Eucalyptus-scented sauna, cook a hearty meal incorporating some of the treats from the gift basket, and curl up in front of the wood-burning stove, which is roaring away and heating up the cabin.
The lodge has a built-in sound system and a collection of books dotted around the house on various shelves, which we leaf through during our stay. Heated flooring is a godsend, particularly in the boot room where our frost-soaked jackets are drying. The lodge is permanently warm, and when the fire proves too efficient, the French doors are opened let in a gust of ice-cold breeze. Outside, there’s not a noise or light for miles around.
On the coffee table is a guestbook filled with leaf after leaf of ebullient feedback, telling of once-in-a-lifetime trips from far-flung parts of the world, get-togethers with family and friends, and short stays from elsewhere in the UK.
Each one talks of their hosts by name, the personalised tips, the home-cooked meals they’ve enjoyed, the unparalleled access to such a special corner of the country. There are mentions of repeat guests and return trips already in the planning.
Even as native Scots and no strangers to the unique and special accommodation on offer across all corners of the country, Eagle Brae feels different in a way. Perhaps it’s the unusual Canadian-style cabins or the perfect coming-together of meteorological phenomena, but staying at Eagle Brae feels like being transported to a far-off and otherworldly place.
On our last day, we throw open the verandah doors one final time to a crisp, fresh morning of bright blue skies. A small lake has frozen over and is glittering in the sunlight and, just beyond, the family of deer has returned to bid us farewell. Within minutes we’re back on the country road and real life once again, gliding along the banks of Loch Ness, past the famous Urquhart Castle – site of ancient clan battles and Highland rebellions. If you’re in search of the real Scotland – the history, the folklore, the nature – there’s surely few places better than this, and no warmer welcome than from Pawana, Mike and family.
We stayed
in the Ardea lodge, which sleeps up to four people (dogs welcome) and comes with private sauna. Ardea is priced from £900 in low season, with a minimum stay of two nights.
This was a media stay – all opinions are our own.
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