In Portugal’s Douro Valley, it’s all about the wine – so it follows that the place you stay should be all about the wine too. A couple of hours’ drive from Porto along the scenic N222 – one of the most impressive drives in Portugal – winds you round the bends of the Douro river, passing the iconic verdant mounds with their terraced vineyards and, every now and again – just visible among the vines – turquoise infinity pools belonging to the many Quintas (wineries) that double as luxury hotels.
The Douro Valley is a place known for high quality luxury accommodation options, and among the most renowned are those belonging to the Pacheca group (owner of the exclusive Quinta da Pacheca winery and port producer). For our trip, the brief is simple: somewhere that takes us right to the heart of the iconic scenery, gets us close to the wine culture of the region, and provides a few days of much needed disconnect and relaxation. Enter Vila Marim Country Houses, Pacheca Group member and luxury retreat nestled on a hilltop among fields of bountiful vines.
On arrival, the first thing to notice is the sense of quiet; the Douro Valley is a widespread area dotted with small villages, and up here on the hills near Vila Marim town we’re far from the tourist buses and boat trips of the waterfront. When we arrive, in fact, the only sound we hear is distant chatter from workers picking grapes in the vineyards below. The second thing – which can’t be missed – is the incredible vista. From up here, we can see for miles over rolling hills and deep cuts into the valley. It’s already late afternoon and the undulating landscape is creating lines of shadow and golden glow against the hotel’s panoramic terrace, where chairs have been set up, separated for privacy by partition walls, designed to take in this breathtaking landscape at all hours of the day.
It’s September, which is the perfect season to visit this region. While the cities on Portugal’s coast are starting to cool down, the shelter of the valley keeps the temperature in the high 20s and early 30s throughout the day.
The vines that line the terraces are prime for harvesting and the hotel’s pool (open 24h) is still very much in use. Our stay feels private and uncrowded, and we see just two other couples, who, like us, spend their days visiting local wineries for tastings and passing the afternoons relaxing with a glass of wine by the pool.
The eponymous Country Houses are in fact modern, glass-fronted elevated containers in terracotta, intended to blend seamlessly into the surroundings. Inside, everything is sleek in shades of white and cream, but the show-stealer has to be the floor-length glass front of the container and the balcony, which offers a panoramic view of the landscape from left to right; miles of terraced beauty.
The rooms are Vila Marim Country Houses are primarily south facing, meaning phenomenal sunrises, long, sun-soaked days, and golden evenings. Our first port of call on arrival is cracking open a bottle of crisp white wine (from the region, of course) and settling on the balcony to watch the sun go down.
At the time of writing, Vila Marim provides continental breakfast, but doesn’t have catering or bar facilities on site. However, the nearby towns of Mesão Frio, Vila Marim and, slightly further, Peso da Régua, have good options for dining and drinks. You’ll definitely want to hire a car when visiting the hotel to give you the freedom to explore the area. Not to be missed is the stunning viewpoint at Miradouro, which offers the postcard-perfect image that comes to mind when you think of the Douro Valley.
Our house is of the Vineyard Suite category, separated into a living and sleeping space, with separate shower and toilet. The balcony runs the width of the house and is strategically designed to offer maximum privacy. There are also a selection of larger houses for family and groups of friends with small kitchens for self-catered stays.
Children are welcome at the hotel, and the swimming pool comes equipped with a small children’s section.
At this time of year, the climate is absolutely perfect and it’s difficult to imagine this not being the case. However, the houses are also designed for use in cold weather, and ours comes equipped with a futuristic hanging fireplace for a cosy winter escape. Indeed, it must be impressive to holed up in the warmth, with a front-row seat to a passing storm or wintry weather.
We’re up early the next morning to watch the sun slowly rise over the hills beyond and the shades of blue turn to gold. It’s a magical way to begin the day, right from the comfort of our own living room. Breakfast is a hearty buffet of meats, cheeses, cereals and breads, served with special touches from the local area such as honeys and jams made in the Douro Valley. After a morning of reading our books in the blazing sunshine by the pool, we make our way down to Peso da Régua for a special day ahead at Pacheca Group’s flagship property, the glorious Quinta da Pacheca, which is housed in a historic mansion on grounds lined with perfectly geometric vines.
You may well have seen Quinta da Pacheca online without realising it, its iconic wine barrel accommodations, each with private plunge pools, eliciting excitement from the travel community. These barrels are just visible from the indoor pool, where we enjoy Quinta da Pacheca’s signature Water Circuit experience: steamroom, sauna and full-sized pool lined with jacuzzi jets. An aromatic shower pumps out lavender scent and thermal loungers are the perfect place for an afternoon nap. The Water Circuit can be booked as a private session for the ultimate relaxation experience. As we relax in the pool, a peacock walks past the window, its sapphire feathers dazzling against the green of the vines.
We’re eager to soak up as much of the winery experience as possible – quite literally in this case as we roll up our trouser-legs and are submerged knee-deep in a barrel full of grapes as part of the Quinta’s lagarada (grape stomping) experience.
As it’s harvest season, it’s only fair that we muck in and do our part – dancing through the grapes as a live band plays upbeat folk songs and a member of the team whose job could only be described as “vibes man” leads our group in wine-soaked conga lines and can-can dances.
Our cheeks hurt with laughter by the end and we’ve worked up a decent thirst – a perfect entry-point for some guided wine tasting in the Quinta’s wine shop, which overlooks the hotel’s gardens. We taste the Quinta’s finest produce, from crisp whites to caramel tawny ports.
This experience, which combines wine tasting, grape stomping and a group meal at Quinta da Pacheca, is one of a number of experiences open to non-guests for a very reasonable price. While the lagarada is only available during harvest season, alternatives are available year-long, such as al fresco picnics in the vineyards in summer, grape picking experiences, and a sunset river cruise along the Douro.
After a magical day to remember at the winery, the taste of the house tawny port still lingering, we head back up the valley to the tranquility of Vila Marim and return to the unmatched joy of moving between suite and pool, days where time is measured in meals, and a wardrobe that consists mostly of swimwear.
Staying here has given us the very best taste of the region: a truly restful and picturesque retreat in the hills, combined with the fun and energy of Portugal’s wine region and the people who live here.
And having driven that famous scenic road from Porto ourselves, we can verify that one of the absolute best views in the Douro Valley is right here, from our very own balcony at Vila Marim Country Houses.
We stayed
in a Vineyard View Suite, priced from 85eur per night in low season, including continental breakfast.
We took part in the Water Circuit experience, from 35eur; and the signature lagarada experience, priced from 100eur per person including wine tasting, grape stomping, and dinner.
For best price, book through Vila Marim Country Houses’ official website. For the Quinta da Pacheca experiences, book direct here.
The was a media stay – all opinions are our own.
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